Route details, maps, pubs, features, local history and folklore for a wide variety of walks focusing primarily on Norfolk and Suffolk

Wednesday, 2 January 2019

A Trek Around Sole Bay

Sole Bay

A 24 mile circular walk between Sizewell and Southwold along the Suffolk Coast Path and Sandlings Walk.

Back in the 17th Century, Southwold was England's main fleet anchorage. Sole Bay (Sawolde Bay) was a bay centred on Southwold with Easton Ness to the North and Dunwich to the South. In May 1672 this bay was the scene of a fierce sea battle when a fleet of 75 Dutch ships took an Anglo-French fleet by surprise. There were heavy losses on both sides in this, the first naval battle of the third Anglo Dutch War, but luckily for the English fleet the wind turned to their favour resulting in their success in the battle. Today coastal erosion has straightened the coastline of the former bay and all that remains of the battle are the stories and the cannons pointing out to sea on Gun Hill.

A Trek Around Sole Bay - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

Start point
Leiston View in OS Map | View in Google Map
End Point
Southwold View in OS Map | View in Google Map
Total Walk distance
23.5 miles
Walk difficulty
Easy

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. The links include published hard copy as well as online plots and downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map
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Ordnance Survey Explorer Map
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Online Ordnance Survey Route
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Online OpenStreetMap Route
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Online Google Route
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ViewRanger App Route
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GPX data for route (download)

Walk Data

Date of Walk
2011-05-29
Walk Time
08:30 to 19:00
Walkers
Griffmonster, Kat
Weather Conditions
Sunny day with a brisk south-westerly wind.

Walk Notes

Due to the limitations of public transport, it is difficult to create linear walks along the Suffolk Coast Path between Sizewell and Southwold. This walk provides a full one day hike that accomplishes the task of walking this section using a circular route, using parts of the Sandlings path to achieve the task. The section between Dunwich and Walberswick uses the beach in one direction and the Coast path through Walberswick marshes to return. This should be open throughout the year although one should be aware that storm surges can flood the marsh route. The 2013 storm surge did a lot of damage to the then newly upgraded paths through the marsh and these still have some rough surfaces that were the result of the surge.

It should also be noted that the Walberswick Ferry only runs at weekends during some weeks of the year and one should check the service prior to walking. An alternative route is to follow the riverside path to the bailey bridge. The bridge was reopened on 15th December 2018 after being closed from October following the discovery of corroded supports. Repair work was completed ahead of time.

One should be an experienced walker to complete this distance. Having said this, there are options to reduce this distance using circular walks returning from Dunwich Heath (10 miles), and Dunwich village (15 miles). For those who do set out on this hike then one will not be disappointed. It has been an annual pilgrimage for Griffmonster Walks for many years and something that I personally never tire of. There is beach, marsh, heath and forest along the journey making a varied landscape that changes in colours over the year. There's plenty of places for refreshment with pubs at Sizewell, Dunwich Heath, Dunwich village, Walberswick, Southwold and Eastbridge and they all serve food.

Crabbing at Walberswick
Crabbing at Walberswick

Directions

The walk follows the Suffolk Coast Path up to Dunwich Heath where a newly designated footpath along the roadside will join back with the Suffolk Coast Path at Greyfriars Woods and leads to Dunwich. Keep with the Coast Path through Dunwich and across the marshes to Walberswick where the river Blyth can be crossed using the ferry to continue into Southwold along the Suffolk Coast Path. Return is straight down the coast to Dunwich then head across the heath through to Eastbridge and Leiston following the Sandlings Walk.

Leiston to Sizewell

Head down Red House Lane toward the Leisure Centre. Continue into the lane at the end until it crosses the former railway by a farm cottage. Proceed straight ahead across the fields toward Halfway Cottage. Turn left to walk down the side of the cottage and onto the road. Turn right and keep walking down to Sizewell.

Sizewell to Southwold

The Suffolk Coast Path keeps to the dunes past the Power Station and alongside Minsmere Bird Reserve. At the north end of Minsmere follow the path up to the top of the cliffs and the Coastguard Cottages. The Suffolk Coast Path heads across the Heath in a diagonal fashion here but an alternative route is to pass past the front of the coastguard Cottages and a path leads across the cliff-tops. After a short distance there is a lookout with a telescope and it is worth while stopping off and surveying the sea for any seals or dolphins. Continue of the cliff-top path until it reaches the road at the entrance to Dunwich Heath. Cross the road and bear right and follow the path adjacent to the road. There is a new section of path here that runs alongside the road through. Once it meets the path heading across the heath, turn right, cross the road and head into the woods. This eventually comes out on the Dunwich Road. Turn right and where the road bends sharply left continue straight ahead down past the cottages. After a bungalow on the left a path leads through Greyfriars Wood to Greyfriars ruins. Walk around the edge following the footpath which comes out in Dunwich. Head along the road past the Ship, the museum and the Church until you come to a track on the right with the Suffolk Coast Path marker. Take this and keep to the track through the woods. Eventually this will lead out onto the marshes, it goes around a small hill on the marsh and up onto the defences. turn left and keep going until it reaches the ruins of an old windmill. A series of steps leads down onto a boardwalk alongside the river. Keep along this until there is a bridge across the river. Take this and follow the path up onto the shingle coastal defence. Turn left and follow the waymarkers towards the river Blyth where it heads into Walberswick. The Ferry is easily found on the riverside. On the Southwold side, turn right and walk alongside the river for a hundred yards and there is a footpath that runs down the back of the campsite and into Southwold.

Southwold to Leiston

Return along Ferry Road or the beach to the Ferry and Walberswick. Here head to the beach and walk through to Dunwich and take the road through town, past the Ship and the Museum. Just beyond the church where the road junctions there is a footpath on the left marked with a Sandlings waymarker. Take this and keep walking until there are some buildings on the right and the footpath is crossed by another. Turn left and follow this down to the road, cross the road and continue along the footpath. Where the footpath meets the Suffolk Coast Path which continues ahead, turn right to cross the northern side of Dunwich Heath. Keep straight ahead when it crosses a road into Minsmere and it ends on the road into Eastbridge. Keep to this road, through Eastbridge and down to the main road into Leiston. Turn left and follow the road back to Leiston. Theres a pavement on the right hand side just past the Abbey.

Walberswick Ferry
Walberswick Ferry

Pubs

The Ship, Dunwich View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Image of pub
Address
The Ship, Dunwich
Website

The Ship is part of a portfolio of inns, restaurants and hotels owned and managed by Agellus Hotels Limited which specialises in distinctive properties offering quality food and accommodation and guest ales.

This 16th century Inn was previously known as The Barnes Inn after the family that once owned the village. There is a roaring wood fire in winter, and a garden complete with a 300 year old knarled fig tree for the summer. The pub offers the usual Adnams ales as well as regularly changing guest ales from a local small Suffolk or Norfolk brewers including Mauldons, Blackfriars and Earl Soham.

The pub is said to be home to a ghost in the attic room. A tale told by a previous owner relates how one dark night she awoke to find a mysterious ghostly figure sitting on the end of her bed. The figure got up and walked through the wall. To add to the intrigue, years later it was found that there was a hidden door in this wall which led to another room which the landlord had no previous knowledge of.

Review

Earl Sohams Blundeston Gold Ale was on offer on this occasion - a very drinkable pale coloured ale with an excellent balance of bitter and sweetness with citrus notes to tantalise a thirsty palette.

Eastbridge Eels Foot View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Image of pub
Address
Eastbridge Eels Foot
Website

A curious name for a pub; some say it comes from a Heel's Foot, a cobblers implement, others will argue that it is named after the Eel's Boot, a type of woven reed basket used in Eel Fishing. A more fanciful explanation is that it is a derivation of Neale's Boot, named after a medieval priest who trapped the Devil in his boot and tossed him into the river. The Devil escaped disguised as an eel.

The pub is an Adnams establishment and regularly has at least three of their cask ales on tap, with the Bitter and Broadside plus seasonal ales. The pub is popular with walkers and birdwatchers from nearby Minsmere bird Reserve.

Food and Bed and Breakfast accommodation is on offer and The Eels Foot is renowned for its long tradition of Folk Music which still continue on Thursday evenings with a jam session.

Up until late 2014 the wall in the alcove adjacent to the bar was decorated with a curious painting of a medieval country feast. On a casual glance it was nothing more than an insight into times gone by but on closer inspection would could see that some of the men within it were wearing rather large codpieces. The painting appeared to be a corruption of 'The Peasants Wedding Feast' by Pieter Bruegel. His son, Pieter the Younger, would copy his fathers work and this particular article could have been a humorous copy as the original has a completely different background and no cod-pieces. Unfortunately this has now been removed, which, so I am told, caused some controversy.

Review

A pint of Ghost Ship in here. Was very busy with campers from the campsite at the farm up the road.

The Cannons on Gun Hill
The Cannons on Gun Hill

Features

The Battle of Sole BayView in OS Map | View in Google Map

The 28th May 1672 marked the opening of the Third Anglo-Dutch War (1672-4) and was heralded by the Battle of Sole Bay. The Anglo-Dutch Wars were a series of wars fought between the English and the Dutch in the 17th and 18th centuries for control over the seas and trade routes. After humiliations in the previous war, English public opinion was unenthusiastic about starting a third one. However, bound by the secret Treaty of Dover, Charles II was obliged to assist Louis XIV in his attack on The Republic in the Franco-Dutch War.

The Anglo-French fleet, led by James, Duke of York (Lord High Admiral and later James II) was anchored in Sole Bay three days prior to the battle, having the task to press men on-board and take on provisions and ammunition. However Parliament had not provided funds and this left the fleet ill-equipped.

The Dutch fleet, under Michel de Ruyter, Lieutenant Admiral of Holland, saw this as an opportunity to attack, and with an easterly wind in their favour made approach to Sole Bay. With the Dutch fleet on the horizon, there was immediate confusion among the ranks of the Anglo-French and against the Duke of York's drawn up battle plan the French headed south as the English headed north to confront the attack.

The French were pursued southwards by 15 Dutch ships and the engagement of battle resulted in the loss of 450 French sailors. Meanwhile, the rest of the Dutch fleet took on the English and with 70 ships had a superiority of two to one over the Duke of York's division. The ensuing fighting was intense with the Duke of York's flagship the main target. After a fierce battle she was so badly damaged that she could no longer function as a flagship, and the Duke was forced to transfer his flag twice during the ensuing action.

As the battle wore on the wind shifted giving the English the benefit and in the late afternoon the Dutch withdrew as the sun set and the remains of the French fleet returned to back up the English. Losses were heavy on both sides: one Dutch ship, the Jozua, was destroyed and another, the Stavoren, captured, a third Dutch ship had an accident during repairs immediately after the battle and blew up. The result of the battle was inconclusive with both sides claiming victory. It had been a particularly bloody battle, and bodies were washed ashore for some time afterward.

On the green just above the beach, descriptively named Gun Hill, the six eighteen-pounder cannon commemorate the Battle of Sole Bay. It is said these guns were given to the town in 1746 by the Royal Armouries, as a protection to shipping against raids. The last known firing was in 1842 to celebrate the Prince of Wales birthday. Tragically whilst re-loading one of the cannons, a man was killed by an explosion.

References

Walberswick FerryView in OS Map | View in Google Map

It has been stated that there has been a ferry at Walberswick from the 13th century onwards. There is certainly pictorial and documented evidence of the ferry from the nineteenth century when the Cross family worked the ferry. As the century drew to an end a chain ferry became established. This was initially a hand-cranked ferry but was later replaced by a steam ferry. The chain ferry service operated up until the second world war when the local landowner Sir Ralph Blois refused to renew the lease. It was then that Old Bob Cross set up a rowing service which passed passed down to his son, Young Bob and then to Young Bobs nephew David Church and finally to Dani Church who is the present oarswoman.

These safety conscious days the ferry is forced to provide life jackets and issue warnings of 'Keep your hands on deck' as the ferry approaches the landing stage. Nonetheless it is always a pleasant experience to cross the Blyth on this friendly ferry service. As a tribute to her dad, Dani Church wrote a book containing a collection of stories and the history of the ferry. This is available from Amazon.

References
Stormy seas at Walberswick
Stormy seas at Walberswick

Gallery

Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.

Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2019-01-02

2011-05-31 : Initial publication
2013-04-10 : update broken links
2016-01-15 : update broken links
2019-01-02 : General website updates and rework notes

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