South West Coast Path - Exmouth to Sidmouth

A pleasant and not too challenging 16 miles ramble along the South West Coast Path between Exmouth and Salcombe Regis

This route is a great introduction to the South West Coast path with all the amazing panoramas, cliff top views and a few challenging ascents and descents. But nothing too demanding. This walk uses the Salcombe Regis campsite as its base location but the walk can simply be terminated at Sidmouth.

This was the first stage of a 10 day walking expedition along the Jurassic Coast section of the South West Coast Footpath between Exmouth and Poole. It is a great part of this long distance trail and if this is ones first visit then, like us, the lure of the fantastic scenery and amazing paths seduced us back in the following years to continue to walk of the whole SWCP trail.

This particular walk was undertaken on the day of arrival which resulted in limited time to undertake it due to having to arrive on site and pitch the tent. However, performing this during the mid summer provides ample evening light to complete the distance. The arrival at the Salcombe Regis campsite was a revelation in itself. Located at the head of the valley leading down to Salcombe Mouth and with views of the deep blue sea beyond and the sloping hillsides full of small fields of pasture intermingled with woodland. A fantastic view that makes one just want to submerge oneself into the landscape. And it was peaceful. Very quiet with few tourists on the campsite and just a distant sounds of donkeys at the nearby donkey sanctuary. I am sure one could scream here and nobody would hear you, you voice would just melt into this idyllic landscape.

Luck was on our side for this walk. There was a bus operated by Stagecoach which linked Sidford, some 15 minutes walk from the site, with Exmouth and the start of the walk. Unfortunately this 157 service no longer appears to serve Sidford and one must continue down into Sidmouth to catch the same bus.

The South West Coast Path is a naturally start end point at Exmouth with the river Exe forming a natural boundary where a ferry connects to the next stage at Starcross. The trail then continues from the ferry and follows the estuary along the Exmouth seafront. It is easy to find as one just has to head to the beach and start walking, following the esplanade all the way along the edge of town where there are a flight of zig-zagging steps to get to the top of the cliffs for the real walk onward.

This section of coastline is a popular tourist destination and there are numerous holiday camps and caravan parks that dot the cliff tops. Despite this, the area is dominated by open fields and rolling countryside with fantastic coastal views as the path heads up to West Down Beacon at 129m. There is then a steady descent down to the town of Budleigh Salterton and a chance to find refreshment. Cliff Road leads from the beach to the main thoroughfare through town and at the junction is the Feathers Hotel. This was a pure chance discovery as are most of the pubs and inns frequented on this site. This was a good choice as there were four local ales on offer and a welcoming host and a drink to toast the start of what was looking like a grand expedition.

Beyond Budleigh Salterton the path has to head inland to negotiate a route around the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve. This is the River Otter and not an otter nature reserve. I think that if you are an otter enthusiast then you would be sorely disappointed with the distinct lack of the semi-aquatic carnivorous mammals. The path follows a 1.5 mile excursion around the marsh and wetland of the estuary before the trails heads back along the cliffs once again.

There is an amble across to Ladram Bay where one encounters the impressive sandstone sea-stacks, weathered and eroded. The views of these island stacks cant fail to amaze and it is well worth taking some time out to gaze and admire and capture a little essence in a photo The trail descends down to the beach road before making a slow steady ascent of the imposing wood covered hill beyond. The going gets more challenging before the summit is reached. This is High Peak and at 157m is the highest point along this short section of the trail. This climb takes a little effort but is well worth it for the view. The eastern side is a slow descent that takes the coast path into Sidmouth.

On this occasion, it was early evening by the time we reached Sidmouth, sometime around 7pm. The town was busy, not full of tourists but a lot of locals since the FA World Cup was in progress and England's National Team were taking on the lowly Algeria in the evening game. After finding a chip shop to feast on what must be one of the nations favourite meals, it only seemed right that we should endorse our patriotic rite and frequent a hostelry to catch the impending game. Expectations were high that England would show their metal and commanding experience and professionalism and demolish this lowly upstart to the sport. A seafront bar was located that was openly advertising the game. The Marine appeared to be one of those tourist enticing bars that left expectations of lots of fizzy beer and loud-mouthed youth but on entering we was pleasantly surprised. Two cask ales were being served on tap, and a few seats available amid the mild mannered audience. It has to be said that the bar was more like an electrical showroom with the number of TV screens that decorated the walls and I was unsure whether this was specific to this event or whether it was the norm. Unfortunately the game was a complete let down. The 0-0 scoreline said it all with the England layers ambling along like they were on a Sunday walk in the park. Their passing was abysmal and their play unenthusiastic and slow-footed. Having said that the Algerian team must have been delighted with their performance in keeping England contained.

Disappointed with the result we left the pub at 9.30 and photographed a public convenience sign. It said it all. By this time the light had stated to fade and it was going to be a challenge in getting up to the campsite as the route negotiated various pieces of woodland. The first hill of trees to the east of the town heads up to the cliff tops and this soon demonstrated the lack of light. Torches were of assistance but nothing is anywhere near as good as daylight. Nonetheless taking ones time arrival at base camp was completed and the end came to what had been a fantastic day.

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South West Coast Path - Salcombe Regis to Lyme Regis

A challenging but rewarding 17 miles hike along the South West Coast Path between Salcombe Regis and Lyme Regis

This is an extensive hike that can be split in two at Seaton. The first half has a number of steep descents and climbs as the path negotiates the numerous combes where streams exude to the sea. The second half is a point of no return that navigates through the undercliff to Lyme Regis. There is no way out and this is an extensive hike through the densely vegetated landscape.

17 miles seems like a perfectly decent distance for a day walk. However with the SWCP one has to take into account the landscape and in this specific walk it is a challenge to complete the full distance and one should be an experienced walker to take this on in one go. If there is any uncertainty then it should be broken down into two smaller walks with Seaton as the convenient point to split the walk.

Having stated this the scenery is awesome from start to finish. With base camp at Salcombe Regis, there is a convenient path that takes one down to the coast path on the eastern side of the deep valley that leads to Salcombe Mouth. Despite being half way up the valley side there is still steep climb out to get over the 156m Dunscombe Cliffs. The path then drops right down to beach level at Weston Mouth before climbing back to 162m as it negotiates Weston Cliff. There's more effort required to get around Branscombe, eventually getting back down to beach level at Branscombe Mouth. Once one is up then one has to go down and once one is down one has to go up.

The coast then turns and one drops down into the village Beer. Yes, Beer. What a great name for a village. Whenever anyone enters Beer then it only seems appropriate that one should toast its name with its namesake beverage. The The Anchor Inn provides an ideal opportunity for such a celebration, a well placed hotel that has a garden on the opposite side of the road through the village, overlooking the seafront. A great position, great ale and, as expected, a very popular place for folk similarly toasting the village name. Its all about location and a beer in Beer is the best location in my beerbook.

There a climb over Beer Hill and the path then descends down into Seaton. Now this small town brings back memories when, during the 1980s, I had a week of camping just outside the town. There was one specific pub that was frequented during that week and they brewed their own beer. If I remember correctly each brew had a railway themed name. Starting at the tame Rail Ale it went through to the powerful dark Sleeper. I believe this was the Beer Engine brewery which appears to have relocated to Exeter. On one specific night at this house of repute, the landlord had gone out for the evening, the Chef was drunk and the barman was liberally plying all and sundry with copious amounts of ale, much of it without charge. That evening the Sleeper Ale lived up to its name.

Unfortunately I could not remember the location or the name of this pub and with many more miles to go then a swift drink at the Hook and Parrot was called for before headign otu on the second half of the days expedition. This seafront bar was clearly aimed at the tourist trade although they did have some ale on offer.

It must be stressed that the walk from Seaton to Lyme Regis, although only some 7 miles is nonetheless a challenging hike with no way out other than returning the way one came. This route navigates through the Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs Nature Reserve, an area of dropped cliff forming a broad shelf part way down the main cliff. The trail is rough, steps are uneven, paths can be muddy and slippery, as experienced on this expedition despite there being little rainfall in the week leading up to the walk. The whole area is covered in tall trees and dense vegetation that some describe as a jungle. There's not much in challenging climbs but the sheer effort to get through this is demonstrated by the warning signs as one enters the area. In addition one should be aware that Lyme Disease carrying ticks can be encountered in the area and one should take suitable precautions against them.

Having said all this, the trek through the undercliff is an amazing experience and although there are only glimpses of the sea, there is so much more to see and discover. The path undulates around the contours, up and over the various hillocks and around the crags and boulders. Ruined buildings are at the heart of the reserve, the remains of a landslip. Flora, fauna and wildlife abound and one could easily take a full day slowly meandering through this seclude piece of nature.

It has to be admitted that emerging from the undercliff and down into the harbour area of Lyme Regis was a rewarding and satisfying feeling that the distance had been completed. The legs complained. The feet hummed. This endurance was duely rewarded with a pint of Palmers beer to soothe the thirst and revive the muscles as feet were put up on the benches outside the Cobb Arms. It is worth a rest at this busy pub before moving along the beach front to town centre where buses stop for the return journey. And whilst one waits there is always the chance for another pint of Palmers at The Rockpoint Inn although in November 2018 the pub was taken over by the St Austels Brewery so maybe the beers have now changed.

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