South West Coast Path - Charmouth to West Bay

A challenging 8 mile hike along the South West Coast Path between Charmouth and West Bay

At only 8 miles, do not underestimate this walk. It is an arduous hike over the hills and across the valleys of coastal Dorest. The highlight is the peak of Golden Cap, which at 191m is the highest point on the English South Coast. The golden greensand rock that crowns the cliff top is what gives this peak its name.

This walk was due to start at Lyme Regis but a cliff fall had taken a section of the coast path and the only method to walk between the town and Charmouth was to use the main coast road which is certainly not conducive to most ramblers. The path has subsequently been reinstated with a route that cuts across timber Hill and minimizes the use of the road.

From Charmouth the route takes a country lane known as Stonebarrow Lane which quite naturally leads up Stonebarrow Hill with a slow and steady climb. At its 148m summit, the path heads to the cliff side then follows the cliff top paths. The going now gets tougher as the path descends to the valley where Westhay Water cascades down, launching itself off the cliffs below and onto the shingle beach. There is a short climb across the following ridge and back down to Ridge Water and another cascading stream that terminates itself in a similar manner. All the time Golden Cap is looming in the distance, beckoning with its challenge. Drawing the walker onwards, but first, another valley needs to be crossed first, Gabriels Mouth. The name is probably derived from a forgotten village known as Stanton St Gabriel which used to lie up the valley. The ruins of the church still exist but other than a farmhouse the village is lost in the landscape.

The ascent of Golden Cap now begins from the bottom of the valley at 40m. After the initial climb out of the valley the path flattens out a little before the major climb up the zigzagging path to the summit. A total climb of 151m. A lot of effort but oh so worth it. At the top the views are outstanding, behind one can view the panorama all around Lyme Bay and beyond. Ahead the coast tapers down to Chesil Beach and on the horizon Portland can be seen.

There is a steady descent from Golden Cap down to the hamlet of Seatown where the Anchor Inn pub is perched above the beach. Benches parade the broad grassy garden overlooking the beach and offers the ideal opportunity to celebrate ones efforts thus far. Palmers ales are on offer and a real thirst quencher. On this occasion the temperatures were an unusually balmy hot summers day with clear blue skies and a summer sun blazing with all its fury.

From Seatown the path climbs up to Ridge Cliff then continues over Doghouse Hill and Thorncombe Beacon before descending down to Eype Mouth. A stream trickles below a wooden footbridge then disappears into the shingle beach. Boats lie upturned in the shelter of the grassy banks of the valley.

There is a final hurdle over West Cliff into West Bay. One may expect another little village nestled in the valley but West Bay has grown over the years and is full of modern conurbations and chips stalls that surround the little harbour. All a little brash after the rural settings encountered on route. The river Brit flows out through the harbour. Originally known as the River Wooth, it had a name change with the establishment of Bridport.

One can continue onwards to Burton Bradstock but for this day, with the draining heat and the arduous climbs the walk was terminated at West Bay and legs were rested at The George Hotel where more of the delicious Palmers Ales were consumed with a spot of lunch.

At the time of walking this route there was a bus service all the way through from West Bay to Salcombe Regis where we had set up base camp. This no longer appears to be the case although there are buses that link West Bay with Charmouth. On this occasion it seemed a good choice to return to Charmouth to explore a little more.

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South West Coast Path - West Bay to Abbotsbury

A 9 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between West Bay and Abbotsbury

One of the easier sections of the South West Coast Path as the cliffs taper down to present the start of Chesil Beach, a vast shingle bank that stretches from Abbotsbury through to Portland.

The climb out of West Bay is a steep ascent up to 45m and the summit of East Cliff. This is the only real challenge on this walk. The cliffs become notably smaller and the going becomes easier. At Buron Bradstock the path descends back down to beach level and follows the perimeter of a holiday park along the side of the River Bride to a bridge although the water looks shallow and placid enough to wade across as the river twists around the shingle and exudes across the beach.

By the time one gets to Codgen Beach there are no cliffs, just the beach that merges into the grassy landscape with an undulating hillscape beyond. Ahead Portland clearly shows itself. The path leads across the head of the beach and at times it is difficult going underfoot. It is a relief to head on the grassy paths that lead behind Burton Mere but it eventually leads back onto the shingle beach.

Beyond Bexington the path improves and continues through to where it heads inland to Abbotsbury, circling around the base of Chapel Hill, where St Catherines Chapel sits ominously on its summit. At this point the coast path doubles back on itself to continue on to Langton Herring. On this instance of the walk, with having to travel from Salcombe Regis using public transport, it left little time for walking. This is the furthest distance that was used from tht specific campsite, reloating to Langton Herring the next day. In retrospect it would have been more convienient to have undertaken this walk from the Langton Herring campsite.

The bus stop in Abbotsbury is outside the Illchester Arms, a 17th century former coaching inn that is well worth paying a visit, the interior welcoming and cosy with its oak beamed ceilings. The pub is said to be haunted and there are numerous ghostly tales associated with the inn including the sounds of coins jangling by a ghostly coin collector, a spectre of a woman who haunts the toilets and the apparition of a Royalist Soldier from the civil war who was reputedly hanged here when caught by Parliamentarians.

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