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Tuesday, 17 December 2019

South West Coast Path - Brixham to Paignton

Paignton Harbour

A 12 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Brixham and Paignton.

There are a few moderately strenuous sections to this walk but nothing too arduous. The walk starts by heading out to Berry Head, the site of a an iron age fort, although most of this has been destroyed by late 18th century fortification for the Napoleonic Wars. The path then descends down into Brixham town where there are refreshment houses and shops set around the harbour. Brixham is much more of a heritage fishing town rather than its commercialized holiday resort neighbours of Paignton and Torquay. Out of Brixham, the path makes its way across the cliffs descending to Broad Sands and Goodrington Sands before reaching Paignton.

South West Coast Path - Brixham to Paignton - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

  • Start location: Brixham 
  • End location: Paignton 
  • Distance:   miles (  km)
  • Total Gain:   ft (  metre)
  • Total Descent:   ft (  metre)
  • Min Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Max Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Walk Time:  
  • Walk type: Linear
  • Walk Grade: Moderate - some steep hills but nothing too arduous
  • Terrain:

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Accommodation:

Upton Manor Farm Campsite, BrixhamView in OS Map | View in Google Map
Website
Description
Upton Manor Farm Campsite, Brixham - a friendly site on the southern edge of Brixham, a mile from the town centre.

Transport:

Details of public transport that is required for the walk

StageCoach - Bus Service
Service Details
12 - At the time of walking this route the local 12 bus service was provided by Stagecoach and linked Brixham to Paignton. Due to the ever changing landscape of public transport it is advised to use the Traveline website to get the latest timetables and operators.
Timetable

Route Verification Details

  • Date of Walk: 2011-06-19
  • Walk Time: 10:00 to 16:30
  • Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
  • Weather Conditions: Sunny spells, warm

Walk Notes

This was completed as the 3rd days walk of an 8-day expedition to walk the South West Coast Path between Exmouth and Plymouth. The intention was to walk this as part as the first days walking but with the weather being so bad on the day it was put off to await better conditions. On all of the expeditions to the South West there is always a little contingency added to the agenda should the unexpected happen. In this case there was one free day which this walk slotted into nicely. And what a change it was too, gone the storms that had sept through the day before and a clear sunny day dawned that become warm and ideal for walking.

Between Brixham and Paignton we discovered Elbery Cove, an almost hidden cove not accessible by road and delightfully quiet. On one side of the beach is an old war lookout built into the cliff. From here steps lead back up onto the cliffs and over to Broadsands, a larger sandy cove flanked by hundreds of beach huts but still quiet. The Kingswear to Paignton Steam Railway cuts across the northern side of the cove and makes its way up the hills from the coast resulting in a full head of steam to get the trains up the incline. The path then follows the line through to Goodrington Sands, a more commercialized beach, before heading across Roundham Head and down into Paignton.

Altogether this was a really pleasant days walk and an excellent way to spend a day. A much recommended walk.

Goodrington Sands
Goodrington Sands

Directions

The path is clearly marked throughout with the National Trail acorns and is fully detailed in the The South West Coast Path: Falmouth to Exmouth National Trail Guide.

From brixham head out to Sharkham Point then take the Coast Path on the left and follow this around to Brixham. At Brixham the path goes around the edge of the harbour then heads across the cliffs.

Statue Of William Of OrangeThe colourful houses of Brixham
On the left Statue Of William Of Orange; On the right The colourful houses of Brixham

Pubs

The Sprat And Mackerel Brixham View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Image of pub
Address
The Sprat And Mackerel Brixham
Website

Early or mid nineteenth century building that is very compact inside. There is outside seating on the pavement in front of the harbour. Ales include fine examples from Bays Brewery.

Review

The pub stands right next door to the Crown and Anchor which we initially entered but finding no ale on offer went next door to find some Bays Devon Dumpling. Excellent beer with quite a lot of horsepower (5.1%) but very drinkable and full bodied.

Inn On The Quay, Goodrington Sands View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Image of pub
Address
Inn On The Quay, Goodrington Sands
Website

Very much a family oriented Brewer´s Fayre pub with large open areas both inside and outside. Offers a token ale amongst their array of keg beers, lagers and ciders.

Review

It took a bit of surveying along the long bar but tucked away, right at the end there was a solitary handpump offering St Austells Tribute.

Talk Of The Town Paignton View in OS Map | View in Google Map

A Wetherspoons pub with the usual array of ale including local examples.

Review

Once again Wetherspoons comes up with some local ale, this time being South Hams Eddystone Ale, a golden fruity ale.

Berry Head
Berry Head

Features

Berry HeadView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Berry Head was the location of an iron age fort, its name deriving from the saxon word Byri which is translated as a fortification. The original fortification was a large earthwork with accompanying ditch but this was destroyed when the Napoleonic fortifications were constructed between 1794 and 1804. To give a good line of fire the ground was leveled leaving very little of the iron age remains. The Napoleonic defences still remain, including the former artillery house which has been converted into a public display and the old guardroom which now serves as a refreshment house.

At the tip of Berry Head is a lighthouse which has the claim to fame of being the shortest in the Trinity House fleet being a mere 16ft tall. Even so, at 190ft above sea level this has a range of 26 miles.

References

Golden HindView in OS Map | View in Google Map

In Brixham Harbour is a full size replica of The Golden Hind, the ship in which Sir Frances Drake became the first Englishman to circumnavigate the globe during the 16th century. The Brixham visitors first impression of this galleon is just how small it is, even the cannons appear to be miniature and its overall size is only 70ft in length and 19ft wide. Despite its size, it has 5 decks and three masts and was the flagship in the expedition of 5 ships which were crewed by 164 men for the voyage. The original Golden Hind was built at Aldeburgh in Suffolk and christened as The Pelican and it wasn't until during the circumnavigation that Drake renamed her. It is thought that the name 'Golden Hind' was chosen to reflect the hind featured on the crest on the coat of arms of Sir Christopher Hatton who was the principal backer for the voyage. The replica has occupied the harbour since 1964 and has a long history of screen appearances in films and television.

References

Statue of William of OrangeView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Standing in the midfront of the harbour is a statue of William of Orange looking landward in a pompous pose. This statue commemorates the landing of what was to become King William III of England. It was from here, on November 5th 1688, that the Dutchman, together with a large mercenary army of 20,000 men and 5,000 horses went on to overthrow the catholic King James II of England. It is said that the block of stone on which he first set foot is preserved in the base of the monument.

GoldenHind
GoldenHind

Gallery

Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.

Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2021-12-07

2011-07-06 : Initial publication
2017-12-19 : general maintenance updates
2019-01-27 : general maintenance updates
2019-12-17 : general maintenance updates
2021-03-17 : Update website improvements and removal of ViewRanger reliance
2021-12-01 : Removal of ViewRanger links due to its imminent demise

South West Coast Path - Brixham to Kingswear

Looking towards the Dart Estuary

A 10 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Brixham and Kingswear.

This section is one of the most strenuous walks along the Exmouth to Plymouth section of the Coast Path but offers some spectacular views. There are craggy cliff-face paths as well as gentle wooded zig-zags before it finally meets the lanes that emerge by the railway station at Kingswear. A frequent bus service operates between Brixham and Kingswear to allow the walker to return to the start point.

South West Coast Path - Brixham to Kingswear - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

  • Start location: Brixham 
  • End location: Kingswear 
  • Distance:   miles (  km)
  • Total Gain:   ft (  metre)
  • Total Descent:   ft (  metre)
  • Min Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Max Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Walk Time:  
  • Walk type: Linear
  • Walk Grade: Strenuous
  • Terrain:

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Accommodation:

Upton Manor Farm Campsite, BrixhamView in OS Map | View in Google Map
Website
Description
Upton Manor Farm Campsite, Brixham - a friendly site on the southern edge of Brixham, a mile from the town centre.

Transport:

Details of public transport that is required for the walk

StageCoach - Bus Service
Service Details
18/18A - At the time of walking this route the local 18 bus service was provided by Stagecoach and linked Brixham to Kingswear. Due to the ever changing landscape of public transport it is advised to use the Traveline website to get the latest timetables and operators.
Timetable

Route Verification Details

  • Date of Walk: 2011-06-17
  • Walk Time: 11:00 to 16:30
  • Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
  • Weather Conditions: Overcast and blustery with a south-west breeze. The afternoon deteriorated into heavy rain

Walk Notes

This was completed as part of an 8-day expedition to walk the South West Coast Path between Exmouth and Plymouth. We arrived at the Uplands Camp site at 10:30 after setting out at 3:30am from Suffolk. The day had been forecast to be a total washout and despite an initial bright start to the morning, the weather soon deteriorated as we motored west. Luckily there was a let-up when we arrived at Brixham so managed to get the tent up in the dry before embarking to Kingswear along the Coast Path.

Living in Suffolk, hills are not something often encountered so getting onto the coast path was exhilarating with the constant ascents and descents and spectacular views despite the weathers gloom. By the time we encountered the first major descent down to Man Sands, the rain resumed forcing us to kit up in waterproofs. The rain became heavier as we went on and by the end of the walk we were absolutely drenched with water having penetrated rucksack, waterproofs and boots. Nonetheless spirits were not dented and it was a good feeling to have completed our initial walk of this section of the coast path.

As we rounded the coast into the Dart estuary the path meanders through the wooded cliff-face. At one point it zig-zags up the cliff to come out on a lane which eventually winds down into Kingswear. As we negotiated this climb we were blocked by a huge tree which had come down directly across the path. Standing next to this, the girth of its trunk was well above my head and I stand 6ft and it clearly could not be negotiated at this point. Going back down the path it was apparent that other walkers had attempted to tackle the obstacle further down the trunk. This involved mounting a steep bank and clambering over the trunk which in dry conditions would have been a feat in itself, but in the torrid conditions the bank was a streaming and slippery mass on water and mud and looked an almost impossible task. Nonetheless a run at the slope followed by grappling the attached vegetation about the trunk enabled us to be able to slowly haul ourselves over. The process took a little time and resulted in a lot of splattered mud but it gave great sense of achievement.

7800  Torquay Manor, GWR 7800 Class 4-6-0 on the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway
7800 Torquay Manor, GWR 7800 Class 4-6-0 on the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway

Directions

Follow the route as detailed in the The South West Coast Path: Falmouth to Exmouth National Trail Guide.

Brixham Town Centre to Sharkham Point

Proceed out of Brixham Town Centre up Bolton Street, easily located by the Bolton Pub. Follow this road up the hill, past the traffic lights and take Castor Road on the left. This continues in a winding fashion further up the hill until it junctions with Upton Manor Road with a large tree in the centre of the junction. Take the road to the left and keep walking round the left hand bend into St Marys Road. This leads down past Upton Manor Campsite and out onto the cliffs at Sharkham Point where the Coast Path crosses the track.

Sharkham Point to Kinswear

The route is clearly marked out with the National Trail acorns.

Man SandsThe Royal Dart Kingswear
On the left Man Sands; On the right The Royal Dart Kingswear

Pubs

The Royal Dart, Kingswear View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Image of pub
Address
The Royal Dart, Kingswear

Located on the waters edge in Kingswear, this 17th century inn has had a number of names throughout its history. Originally called The Plume of Feathers, it changed its name to The Station Hotel when the railway arrived in the mid 19th century before changing again to the Yacht Hotel in honour of the Dart Yacht Club that held their meetings at the inn. When Queen Victoria paid a visit to the regatta the name of the pub changed yet again to The Royal Dart Hotel and finally in the 1980s with the selling off of its rooms for apartments it eventually obtained its present name of The Royal Dart. As if this name changing was not enough, during WWII, The Royal Navy requisitioned the building to use it as a HQ to control various coastal flotillas and as all naval establishments have ships names, The Royal Dart was called ‘HMS Cicala’.

The present building offers a balcony restaurant overlooking the river and offers a wide variety of locally sourced fish, meat and vegetables on their menu.

Review

The barstaff, despite our being in very wet and muddy condition granted our entry and they appeared to be impressed that we had completed this section of the path in such dreadful weather conditions. Although there was a Bays beer-clip attached to one of the beer engines, the only ale available was St Austell's Tribute Ale. A very fine and rewarding pint.

The Vigilance, Brixham View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Opened on 18 Mar 1998 this Wetherspoons pub is named after the last sailing trawler to be built in Brixham in 1926. The usual Wetherspoons range of ales including local examples

Review

Usual Weatherspoons establishment with a good choice of ales. However we returned after the following days walk but were disappointed by the fact they were serving beer in plastic glasses. We retired to the Three Elms Pub just off Castor Street, a little local serving Tribute.

Brownstone Battery
Brownstone Battery

Features

Brownstone BatteryView in OS Map | View in Google Map

During WWII a series of emergency Coastal Defence Batteries were built including the one that still stands at the mouth of the river Dart at Inner Froward Point. Armed with two six inch guns with a range of over 14 miles, these were operated in tandem with a searchlight close to the high water mark. During its operation the base was manned with 230 soldiers who operated the guns, searchlights and observation post. Together with the generator room, ammunition store, accommodation block, latrines, general store and mess rooms the complex was fairly extensive and can still be viewed today. The area is currently owned by the National Trust.

References

The Paignton and Dartmouth Steam RailwayView in OS Map | View in Google Map

This restored line on the former Kingswear branch line between Paignton and Kingswear runs for 6.5 miles terminating adjacent to the current Paignton Railway Station. The original branch line was built by the Dartmouth and Torbay Railway in 1864 and operations continued on the line up until the Ministry of Transport put forward a proposal for closure in 1968. At this point the Dart Valley Railway stepped in and bought the line in 1972 and by January 1973 had a regular service running. Today there is a regular service operated by a mixture of steam and diesel locomotives including GWR 7800 Class 4-6-0 7800 Torquay Manor (originally numbered and named 7827 Lydham Manor) as well as frequent visits of steam excursion trains from Bristol Temple Meads.

References
Sunset after a long day of rain
Sunset after a long day of rain

Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2021-12-07

2011-06-27 : Initial publication
2017-12-19 : general maintenance updates
2019-01-27 : general maintenance updates
2019-12-17 : general maintenance updates
2021-03-17 : Update website improvements and removal of ViewRanger reliance
2021-12-01 : Removal of ViewRanger links due to its imminent demise

Indexes and Info

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