In Search of Sizewell and Thorpe Beacons

A 10 mile walk following the southern side of the parish boundary of Leiston in coastal Suffolk.

This is the second article devoted to the walk following the route of a 17th century perambulation around the southern side of the Leiston Parish boundary. This article concentrates on two landmarks from the past, namely Sizewell and Thorpe Beacons, which are thought to have been part of the Armada early warning system.

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In Search of the ruins of Leiston Abbey (Diversion in Place)

A 10 mile circular walk around Leiston and Eastbridge in Suffolk

Leiston Abbey was originally founded in the late 12th century by Ranulf de Glanville. The original building was constructed on an island in the Minsmere marshes. Two centuries later, due to the inhospitable conditions on the marsh and constant flooding the Abbey was moved inland, lock stock and stone to a site close to Leiston. Despite a great fire in 1367 and much demolition following the dissolution of the monasteries there still remains some impressive ruins. There is still a remnant of the old Abbey, with the former chapel building sitting in its island position above the marsh, decaying into the landscape and containing a WWII pill box. This walk visits both sites making a well worthwhile walk.

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The Sandlings Walk - Knodishall to Snape (Diversion in Place)

A 13 mile circular walk along the Sandlings Walk between Knodishall and Snape

With limited public transport this walk offers a circular route to incorporate the Sandlings path from Knodishall to Snape. Starting and ending at nearby Leiston it incorporates The Sailors Path and the Suffolk Coast Path to make a worthwhile day walk. The route passes Friston mill and Hall and the burial grounds where a Saxon burial ship was discovered. With pubs at Friston and Snape it provides for a great days ramble.

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The Alde Valley Walk - Leiston to Wickham Market (Diversion in Place)

A 16 mile walk along the East Suffolk Line Path between Leiston and Wickham Market

Although the official route for the East Suffolk Line Path links the stations at Saxmundham and Campsea Ashe, this provides an alternative route using the local bus service to link the two ends. Highlights along the route include the picturesque Beversham Mill and the legendary Blaxhall Stone (a little off route) which is said to progressively grow in size.

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In Search of Leiston's Ancient Pagan Sites, the Procession Rayles and Gallows (Diversion in Place)

A 7 mile walk following the western parish boundary of Leiston in Suffolk, as described in a document from the middle-ages

This walk attempts to follow the instructions of a perambulation around the western side of the Leiston Parish boundary that was undertaken in the year AD1620. Leiston's history is renowned for its Abbey and the Garret's works, but this walk also discovers the site of a possible ancient pre-Christian shrine or temple, the location of the Leiston gallows and the procession route taken by those attending this gruesome public spectacle.

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Leiston to Middleton Mill Circular Walk

A walk across the coastal Suffolk countryside to the village of Middleton

A splendid way to spend a days walking, cross fields and countryside and heading to the location of the Middleton Watermill. There are churches to stop and investigate on the way.

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Sizewell Circular Walk 1 of 5 - BLOCKED UP

WARNING

THIS WALK USES BLOCKED UP PATHS AND IS CURRENTLY INACCESSIBLE.

PLEASE CHOOSE ANOTHER WALK.

Sizewell, Goose Hill, Kenton Hills and Sizewell Belts

Walk 1 of a series of five Walks created for the Vulcan Arms pub at Sizewell. This follows the beach to woodland of Goose Hill and Kenton Hills with return across Sisewell Belts. A glorious walk encapsulating the differing landscapes of this special area of Suffolk

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Suffolk Coast Path Challenge Walk Part 2

A 2 day challenge walk to complete the Suffolk Coast Path

The second day of a 2 day challenge walk to walk the Suffolk Coast from Languard Fort to the county boundary at Hopton. This second starts at Sizewell and continues through to Hopton

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Suffolk Coast Path Challenge Walk Part 1

A 2 day challenge walk to complete the Suffolk Coast Path

The first day of a 2 day challenge walk to walk the Suffolk Coast from Languard Fort to the county boundary at Hopton. This first day terminates at approximately the half way point of Sizewell

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Leiston To Yoxford Circular Walk (Diversion in Place)

Exploring the countryside between the East Suffolk villages of Leiston and Suffolk

This is a walk to celebrate the glorious working landscape of East Suffolk. With the option of two pubs at Yoxford this makes for a good days rambling

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Dunwich to Walberswick

A 13 mile Suffolk circular walk connecting Dunwich and Walberswick

This walk encapsulates coast, forest and marsh presenting a myriad of landscapes. Making use of both the Sandlings and Suffolk Coast Path, it is a simple and easily navigated wander to fill a days exploration

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In Search of Leiston Gibbet, Friday Market Heath and St Andrews Green

A 6 mile walk around the heaths and commons of Coldfair Green.

This walk follows an investigation to seek out the location of the Leiston Gibbet and an area of heathland that was known in the 1600's as Friday Market Heath. The only reference to these places comes from an old book from 1910 entitled 'The Chronicles of Theberton' which details the route past the gibbet. This walk attempts to retrace this route by navigating along the heathland and footpaths around the River Hundred which marks the boundary between the hundreds of Blything and Plomestead. Extensive research which has been undertaken and documented in the feature of this walk with some revealing insights to long forgotten places.

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Alde Valley Walk - Sweffling to Badingham

A circular walk through the quintessential Suffolk countryside following the River Alde

A circular walk following country lanes with a few footpaths along the Alde Valley. This is typical Suffolk countryside where one can take a lazy stroll. There are pubs to visit, three to be precise and all named the White Horse, along with three churches that are not named the White Horse!

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Saxmundham to Rendham Circular Walk

Circular Walk between Saxmundham and the village of Rendham

Six mile circular walk across the Suffolk countryside with a worthy stop off at the White Horse pub at Rendham. Woodland, open fields, babbling brooks make this typical of this part of Suffolk. And there is history to, with the Roman bronze head being discovered in the river at Rendham back in 1907. How did it get there?

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In Search of the Lost City of Dunwich (Diversion in Place)

A circular walk between Leiston and Dunwich

This walk uses the beach and the Sandlings Path to provide a days walk to Dunwich from Leiston via Sizewell. One should time this walk such that the beach is walked a couple of hours either side of low tide when there is a little sand to walk along. At other times the beach is predominantly shingle and the walker may find it easier to follow the Suffolk Coast Path which is waymarked from the north side of Minsmere where it continues up onto the cliffs.

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Kenton Hills and Broom Covert Circular Walk - BLOCKED UP

A circular walk around the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty at Sizewell

This walk uses blocked up paths and is currently inaccessible. There is no access through Goose Hill and down to the beach. Some parts of Kenton hills are accessible. The path across Broom Covert is lined with metal fencing and the path across the meadow to Reckham Pits has been directed. This is due to construction works linked to Sizewell C.

This walk has a diverse landscape that has something for everyone. Woodland, coast and beach, freshwater marsh and Sandlings Heath which is a delight to any visitor and worthy of its status as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The walk heads out of Leiston alongside the man-made Aldhurst Farm nature reserve, an area of wetland, heath and grassland created in 2015 as a sweetener for the local folk should the proposed Sizewell C Power Station get approval. It isn't presently accessible to the public other than the established footpath that runs along the valley and a new path running adjacent to Valley Road. The north side of the reserve was once known as Winters Heath, common land that was enclosed in the early 19th century. Therefore this is not so much as giving something to the community as returning the access rights to the people that such common land once afforded.

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Suffolk Coast Path - Sizewell to Aldeburgh Circular Walk

A circular walk from Sizewell to Aldeburgh along the Suffolk Coast Path

The Suffolk Coast Path does not go into Aldeburgh but it is a simple excursion to continue along the beach all the way down to the unique clover leafed Martello Tower at the vanished village of Slaughden using the old railway track to make a circular walk.

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The Sandlings Walk - Bromeswell to Snape

A 16 mile walk along the Suffolk Sandlings Path between Bromeswell and Snape taking in Rendlesham and Tunstall forests

The route leads across gorse covered heathland and through forest which typifies the modern landscape of the Sandlings. The forests are a modern development, set up with the founding of Forestry Commission during the 1920's to provide Britain with a sustainable source of timber. One cannot fail to notice the twin airbases of Woodbridge and Bentwaters, the scene of a infamous military encounter with a UFO during December 1980.

Walk Statistics

• Start location: Bromeswell 
• End location: Snape Maltings 
• Distance:   miles (  km)
• Total Gain:   ft (  metre)
• Total Descent:   ft (  metre)
• Min Height:   ft (  metre)
• Max Height:   ft (  metre)
• Est. Walk Time:  
• Walk type: Linear
• Walk Grade: Easy
• Terrain:

Route Map

Maps

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map

OS Explorer 212 - Woodbridge & Saxmundham

GPX Route File

Transport

Service

Service Details

Unfortunately there is no longer a regular bus service that serves Snape Maltings therefore there is no public transport to connect the two ends of this walk. The nearest bus service by continuing along the Sandlings path would be Friston, but this would involve a change at Saxmundham. At the other end, the 800 service links Bromeswell, Melton and Woodbridge but is not very regular so it is beneficial to start the walk from Melton. It is always worth using the Traveline website in case any service becomes available

Timetable

Walk Notes

It should be noted that in 2017 the bus service was severely slashed for this part of Suffolk. There is now only a single service in each direction between Snape and Bromeswell each weekday with no service at all during weekends making it very difficult to perform this walk without assistance from friends or family with a car. The alternative is to start the walk from Melton adding another 1.5 miles to the start and curtailing the walk on the Blaxhall road and walking the 3.5 miles along country lanes through to Stratford St Andrew, or to continue onward from Snape to Aldeburgh which will add another 5.5 miles to the walk.

This route was served by Anglia buses up until 2013 and they provided a popular and friendly service. When the company was taken over by the national Go-Ahead Group the route was immediately axed stating that it was unprofitable. First Group subsequently stepped in and supported the route as an extension of their existing 64 service but have now cut back the 64 and all but removed the 65. This has left villages and communities along the route without any buses whatsoever and deprived walkers of using the long distance Sandlings footpath without having full over night gear. This issue has been brought up with the appropriate authorities who have responded by stating that First Group is a private company and therefore need to make a profit and as a result unprofitable routes will be axed. This certainly does not encourage tourism or the use of this under-rated gem of a trail. It is notable that when Anglia buses ran this route they returned a profit but the big nationals deem it unprofitable. No doubt there are many more layers of management to support in these huge organisations.

Despite this lack of transport, I will continue with describing this part of the Sandlings area and footpath. There are little signs of civilisation and the only time any other walkers are encountered are in the popular Rendlesham Forest. But even here there are only a few people most of whom are dog walkers.

The route on this particular occasion diverted away from the Staverton Park area in order to take a break and refreshments at the Butley Oyster pub, a little treasure to search out. This pub reopened in 2017 after an extended period of closure.

Throughout the route there is plenty to see with both flora and fauna as well as more man made artefact's. Gobblecock cottage is worth a snigger just because of its name. The remote Wenhaston church is something one would not discover without walking the Sandlings Path. Both Woodbridge and Bentwaters airfields contain a certain eeriness with little signs of life behind their tall fences.

The route passes the official start to the UFO trail which is something probably no other trail can boast. It is worth taking time out and reading the triangular marker board and taking in what happened way back in 1980 and which has become known as Britain's Roswell. Although there is still debate over exactly what happened during those nights around Christmas 1980, to my mind there are far too many witnesses and too much evidence to discount that it was purely fantasy and mistaken identity of the obvious Orfordness Lighthouse which sits directly east on the horizon. This, together with hearing the testimony from acquaintances who were around at the time, all go to add to the weight that this was a lot more than a mistaken regular flashing light in the forest. We will probably never discover exactly what happened, the event downplayed by the authorities and official documentation safely hidden away in top secret repositories.

Directions

The Sandlings path is adjacent the bus stop at the junction of the A1152 and B1084, opposite the road into Bromeswell village. Follow the waymarked signs through to Snape Maltings. We diverted from the edge of Rendlesham forest and took the road to Butley for refreshments at the Oyster. The path was rejoined just beyond Butley

Directions

The Sandlings path is adjacent the bus stop at the junction of the A1152 and B1084, opposite the road into Bromeswell village. Follow the waymarked signs through to Snape Maltings. We diverted from the edge of Rendlesham forest and took the road to Butley for refreshments at the Oyster. The path was rejoined just beyond Butley

Pubs

The Butley Oyster Inn, Butley View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Address

Woodbridge Rd, Butley

Website

www.butleyoyster.com/

This village inn dates back to 12th Century and still retains many old features such as oak beams, and a cast iron fire surround which allegedly dates from the 1700's and the walls are adorned with local photos and articles. Tax records show that the pub was known as The Great Oyster in 1617

After over four years of closure the pub reopened in March 2017 and is a charming, warm, rustic old pub, unspoilt by the rigours of age. The owners added an on-site shop and a microbrewery but despite this in 2019 the pub once again closed its doors. The future is currently uncertain with possible change of ownership or purchase by the local community.

Review (2010-04-03)

Adnams ales on offer, a roaring fire to sit in front of and some old locals telling us about the history of the old inn. Perfect.

Plough and Sail, Snape View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Address

Snape Maltings, Snape

Website

https://www.theploughandsailsnape.com/

There has been a pub here since the 16th century, when it was a smugglers inn at the head of navigation on the River Alde. Throughout this period and right up until 1965 the pub was also the focus for the sailors who traded barley on the Thames Barges that berthed on the quayside.

The pub was taken over in April 2012 by twin brothers Alex and Oliver Burnside. They offer quality seasonal food produced from local suppliers as well as local ales. There is a spacious restaurant, a cosy bar and intimate balcomny area. Seating is provided in front of the pub and there is a courtyard at the back.

Review (2010-04-03)

A final pint of Adams Explorer before the bus home. Although the air was cool it was still warm enough to sit on the bench outside and reflect on the great days walk.

Features

Gobblecock CottageView in OS Map | View in Google Map

This somewhat amusing name is probably derived from the old Suffolk name for a turkey-cock which was known as a gobble-cock and could reflect the keeping of turkeys in days gone by. This 19th century rubble flint thatched cottage is a grade II listed building. This cottage is the sole surviving intact example of a gamekeeper's cottage on this shooting estate.

The Sandlings ForestsView in OS Map | View in Google Map

The area of East Suffolk known as The Sandlings is characterised by extensive unfertile sandy soils. This is the domain of hardy plants that can survive this habitat: gorse, bracken and heather are abundant throughout this area.

The first world war brought realisation of how much timber was imported into this country and after hostilities ceased The Forestry Commission was set up to provide a home grown timber resource. Naturally the farmers and landowners from the Sandlings area were eager to sell their poor quality land to this new organisation and thus in 1921 the forests were set up at Rendlesham, Tunstall and Dunwich.

The combined forests cover about 8648 acres of the former Sandlings. The great storm of 1987 devastated much of Rendlesham forest with over a million trees being blown down. Since then the forest has been replanted with a more varied mix of trees to include both conifer and broadleaved varieties intersected with clearings, wetland and heath to provide a varied habitat that encourages wildlife and fauna.

Each forest area has public access. Rendlesham Forest has been enhanced with cycle and walking trails including the UFO Trail to commemorate the landing and encounter with a UFO by USAF Servicemen in 1980. Sometimes referred to as The British Roswell, this event happened over several days of the Christmas period of 1980 and witnessed by dozens of military servicemen as well as civilians. The UFO Trail navigates from The East Gate of RAF Woodbridge, where the UFO was initially witnessed landing in the forest, and leads through the forest on the alleged route the servicemen travelled to where they found the unknown craft landed, and which is now marked by a sculpture. Full details of a walk incorporating this trail can be found at An Extended Walk around the Rendlesham UFO Trail.

The forest also includes activity areas and regularly hosts events including Theatre in the Forest. A camping area provides access for those who want to stay over in these delightful surroundings.

Staverton ParkView in OS Map | View in Google Map

The area north of RAF Woodbridge, to the east of Rendlesham forest is known as Staverton Park. It is thought that this was originally a deer park created between the 11th and 13th centuries. Records show that during this time that the abundant oak was used in a wide variety of manners. This included bark for tanning leather, acorns for pig feed as well as the usual timber and fuel.

Later, during the 16th century the oaks started to be pollarded which was done on a 50 year cycle. During this period there was also Staverton Hall located to the south west of the present woodland in what is now Rendlesham Forest

Today the site, described in 1986 as 'a famous and awesome place of Tolkienesque wonder and beauty' is a Special Area for Conservation (SAC) and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The ancient woodland consists of oak and birch with some holly trees which are said to be the largest in Britain. It has an awesome woodland of ancient oak and birch, and part of the site has holly trees reputed to be the largest in the UK. It may have been a deer park in the Middle Ages and there is a fenced-off area for these mammals now. Privately managed.

Wantisden ChurchView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Wantisden church, dedicated to John the Baptist, can be found on the track that leads around the eastern perimeter of RAF Bentwaters. There is no road access to this remote church and up until the 1950's it was positioned within the enclosure of the military area. This necessitated a military escort for those who wanted to visit the church.

The significant feature of the church is the coralline crag tower of which there are only two examples in the county, the other being at nearby Chillesford. The tower dates from the 15th century and is curious by the fact that it has no battlements.

Links and Bibliography:

• Bentwaters Archeology Study Document
• Bentwaters Archaeology Study Document

Image Gallery

Rendlesham Forest

Rendlesham Forest

Moorings at Snape Maltings

Old trees on the edge of Staverton Park

Gobblecock Cottage

Track from Bromeswell

The Sandlings Path leads across Woodbridge Golf Club

The western edges of Rendlesham Forest

Track by Sutton Common

Sutton Common

Upper Hollesley Common

Track to Tangham

Rendlesham Forest

Sculpted crocodile in Rendlesham Forest

Sculpted crocodile in Rendlesham Forest

UFO Trail in Rendlesham Forest

UFO Trail in Rendlesham Forest

Road entrance to Rendlesham Forest

Track in Rendlesham Forest

Clearing in Rendlesham Forest

Mound in Rendlesham Forest

Rendlesham Forest

Rendlesham Forest

Old trees on the edge of Staverton Park

Old trees on the edge of Staverton Park

Butley Oyster pub

Butley Oyster pub

Butley

RAF Bentwaters

Pond at the edge of RAF Bentwaters

RAF Bentwaters

Wantisden Church

Wantisden Church

Wantisden Church

Sandlings sculptures

Tunstall Forest near Blaxhall Heath

Snape Maltings

Bridge at Snape Maltings

Moorings at Snape Maltings

Moorings at Snape Maltings

Route Validation Cards

Validation Date - 2010-04-03

• Time of Walk: 09:30 to 16:00
• Validators: Griffmonster, Kat
• Weather Conditions: Cool but bright. Odd threat of a shower but nothing eventually occurring
• Notes: Initial route undertaken

Validation Date - 2014-12-19

• Time of Walk: 07:00 - 14:00
• Validators: Griff
• Conditions: Clear day after previous days rain
• Notes: As ever, I got a little lost in Rendlesham Forest

Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2026-01-12

• 2021-03-17 : Update website improvements and removal of ViewRanger reliance
• 2021-12-01 : Removal of ViewRanger links due to its imminent demise

Related Walk Links

• Walks around Bromeswell
• Walks around Butley
• Walks around Snape
• Walks along the Sandlings
• Walks for OS Map 212, Woodbridge & Saxmundham

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