Route details, maps, pubs, features, local history and folklore for a wide variety of walks focusing primarily on Norfolk and Suffolk

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Monday 3 January 2011

In Search of the ruins of Leiston Abbey

A 10 mile circular walk around Leiston and Eastbridge in Suffolk

Leiston Abbey was originally founded in the late 12th century by Ranulf de Glanville. The original building was constructed on an island in the Minsmere marshes. Two centuries later, due to the inhospitable conditions on the marsh and constant flooding the Abbey was moved inland, lock stock and stone to a site close to Leiston. Despite a great fire in 1367 and much demolition following the dissolution of the monasteries there still remains some impressive ruins. There is still a remnant of the old Abbey, with the former chapel building sitting in its island position above the marsh, decaying into the landscape and containing a WWII pill box. This walk visits both sites making a well worthwhile walk.

Wednesday 2 January 2019

A Walk around Suffolk's Minsmere Bird Reserve

Minsmere sluice

A 10 mile circular walk through the Suffolk Coastal Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty taking in Sizewell and the Minsmere Bird Reserve

One does not have to have an enthusiasm for ornithology to enjoy this walk. The natural surroundings of marshland and heathland are enough to inspire everyone and there is a lot of associated history along this route which dates back to the 12th century when Leiston Abbey once occupied an island in the marshes. Note that charges apply to the Minsmere section.

Sunday 15 August 2010

An Amazing Adventure to Westleton Barrel Fair 2010

An Amazing Adventure to Westleton Barrel Fair 2010
A 9 mile return Suffolk walk from Leiston to Westleton to attend the annual Westleton Barrel Fair
This isnt a walk that I would normally include as it is not really a true circular walk, but Westleton Barrel Fayre is worth the mention in itself! Each year Westleton Village organises the mid-August fayre and rather than driving to the event it is just as easy to walk the 4.5 miles. You can walk down the lanes from Leiston to Eastbridge, but as there had been so much rain in recent days, we decided to keep to the road. There is a pavement out of Leiston, then the road to Eastbridge is a one lane track with little traffic. Then it is a pleasant walk through the woods. Westleton Barrel Fayre was a most excellent adventure

Tuesday 1 January 2019

Leiston to Westwood Marsh

The old Westwood Marsh Pumping Mill

A walk encompassing the Westwood Marshes footpath into a circular route from Leiston

The Westwood Marshes footpath is little gem of a path that links the Newdelight Walks with the Suffolk Coast Path through the Westwood marshes. The route for this walk uses this path as the ultimate destination from Leiston but shorter alternatives to include this path are also detailed.

Monday 7 January 2019

A Walk to the Dunwich Leper Chapel

Leper Chapel

A 14.25 mile circular walk between Leiston to Dunwich

A simple walk using the Suffolk Coast Path from Sizewell to Dunwich with a visit to the ruins of the 12th century Leper Chapel. The return uses the the footpath via Mount Pleasant to get onto the Sandlings Path across Dunwich Heath to return back to Leiston.

Thursday 29 September 2011

An Amazing Adventure to Westleton Barrel Fair 2011

Barrel Race

A simple 11 mile walk across the Suffolk heaths and woodland from Leiston to attend the annual Westleton Barrel Fair.

For the second year on the trot we made our way through the lanes, tracks and footpaths to experience the unique adventures of Westleton Barrel Fair. This year there was the usual barrel races across the village green, open to residents and all-comers, together with straight sprints and sack races providing a full days entertainment in the August sunshine. Music was provided on the outdoor stage from the Bruisyard Light Orchestra performing a mixture of blues and pop cover versions in their unique style, together with performances by Rumburgh Morris Men. Other attractions included Punch and Judy shows, Donkey rides, Owls and exotic creatures on display, Coconut Shy, hog roast and various stalls offering local crafts. Adnams ales were available from the White Horse pub and their outside bar by the duck pond though unfortunately the Crown beer tent wasn't here this year so for guest ales we had to resort to wandering down to the Crown. An excellent day out and well worth the walk!

Thursday 24 November 2011

The Rather Curious Herring Festival 2011

An 8.8 mile circular walk through the Suffolk countryside to attend the 2011 Suffolk Herring Festival at Middleton.

I have been to music festivals and folk festivals and country fairs and even the novel barrel fair, but I can honestly say that I have never ever attended a Herring Festival until this walk. Held on the grounds of the Farm Shop in the village of Middleton this two day event features food and drink, exhibitions, music and games, competitions, and demonstrations of herring preservation and preparation.

Wednesday 2 January 2019

A Trek Around Sole Bay

Sole Bay

A 24 mile circular walk between Sizewell and Southwold along the Suffolk Coast Path and Sandlings Walk.

Back in the 17th Century, Southwold was England's main fleet anchorage. Sole Bay (Sawolde Bay) was a bay centred on Southwold with Easton Ness to the North and Dunwich to the South. In May 1672 this bay was the scene of a fierce sea battle when a fleet of 75 Dutch ships took an Anglo-French fleet by surprise. There were heavy losses on both sides in this, the first naval battle of the third Anglo Dutch War, but luckily for the English fleet the wind turned to their favour resulting in their success in the battle. Today coastal erosion has straightened the coastline of the former bay and all that remains of the battle are the stories and the cannons pointing out to sea on Gun Hill.

Saturday 12 January 2019

Down the Blyth Valley in Pursuit of Black Shuck

River Blyth near Halesworth

An 18 mile walk down the Blyth Valley in Suffolk from Halesworth to Blythburgh, then across the heaths and commons to Leiston.

It was the legendary hell hound that supposedly came this way in 1577 and terrified parishioners of Blythbrugh church after doing a similar job at Bungay. This walk is in two sections, the first section follows the River Blyth along the Waveney Way to Blythburgh with the option to continue on to Southwold. The Waveney Way is a Ramblers Association walk and does not have waymarkers along the route. An optional second section cuts across to Westleton and onto Leiston. Both Southwold and Leiston have public transport links to Halesworth making the walk achievable as a linear route without the requirement of assistance of a taxi.

Sunday 22 December 2013

The Aftermath of the 2013 Storm Surge at Minsmere

Flattened dunes by the Northern Sea Wall to Minsmere

A 10 mile circular walk to witness the damage caused by the 2013 Storm Surge

The 2013 Storm Surge proved to be the highest tide in 60 years. Although much of the flooding had recede the evidence remained of where the waters reached. Viewing the changes in coastline shows just how vulnerable this stretch of the Suffolk coast really is, especially in view of the fact that such storms appear to be increasing in frequency. The walk returns through the heath and forest via Dunwich Heath and Eastbridge where the results of Octobers St Jude storm are evident from the many fallen trees.

Monday 17 December 2018

The Sandlings Walk

The Sandlings Waymarker

An overview of the Sandlings Walk, a 55 mile long distance path through the forests and heaths of East Suffolk

The Sandlings is a 55 mile walk starting at Rushmere Heath on the eastern side of Ipswich with Southwold, passing through the remaining fragments of East Suffolks Sandling Heaths. The trail leads through Rendlesham, Tunstall and Dunwich forests and also includes riverside walks at Woodbridge and heathland walks across Rushmere Heath, Sutton Heath, Thorpeness Common and Dunwich Heath..

Tuesday 1 January 2019

Leiston to Walberswick Circular Walk

Sole Bay

A 22 mile circular walk between Leiston and Walberswick incorporating sections of the Suffolk Coast Path and Sandlings Walk.

This walk uses the beach at low tide to get from Sizewell to Walberswick, returning through Dunwich forest. Walberswick is said to be the most haunted place in Britain though one would not think it from its relaxed and laid back character, famous for its crabbing pastimes.

Monday 27 August 2012

An Amazing Adventure to Westleton Barrel Fair 2012

Barrel Race

A simple 11 mile walk across the Suffolk heaths and woodland from Leiston to attend the annual Westleton Barrel Fair.

Despite a brief thunderstorm, a fantastic Summers day was had at the Westleton Barrel Fair 2012 living up to its expectations with all the usual fun and merriment. This years event featured music from Westleton's Doc Cox and Leiston's Random Blues Company, morris dancing from the Rumburgh Morris Dancers, outside bars from the White Horse and the Westleton Crown and, of course, the ever popular, chaotic, breath-taking and entertaining barrel races. This is a unique annual Suffolk event and well worth taking the time out to visit.

Sunday 9 February 2020

Suffolk Coast Path

Martello Tower at Bawdsey

An overview of the Suffolk Coast Path, a 60 mile long distance path following the coast of Suffolk

A 60 mile long distance footpath from Felixstowe to Lowestoft in easy stages through some of the characteristic landscapes of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The path also includes the Orford Loop which provides access through to Orford and the Butley Ferry. Alternative beach walks, providing the tide is right, can be undertaken throughout.

Sunday 22 September 2019

In Search of Sizewell Chapel

Broom Covert

A 10 mile walk following the southern side of the parish boundary of Leiston in Suffolk

This walk follows the route of a 17th century perambulation around the southern side of the Leiston Parish boundary. The walk uses the ancient track down to Sizewell and continues down to Thorpe before turning inland to follow the River Hundred through to Cold Fair Green. The details are contained in two articles, this being the first, focusing on the medieval history of Sizewell.

Tuesday 7 January 2020

Kenton Hills and Broom Covert Circular Walk

Broom Covert

A circular walk around the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty at Sizewell

This walk has a diverse landscape that has something for everyone. Woodland, coast and beach, freshwater marsh and Sandlings Heath which is a delight to any visitor and worthy of its status as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The walk heads out of Leiston alongside the man-made Aldhurst Farm nature reserve, an area of wetland, heath and grassland created in 2015 as a sweetener for the local folk should the proposed Sizewell C Power Station get approval. It isn't presently accessible to the public other than the established footpath that runs along the valley and a new path running adjacent to Valley Road. The north side of the reserve was once known as Winters Heath, common land that was enclosed in the early 19th century. Therefore this is not so much as giving something to the community as returning the access rights to the people that such common land once afforded.

Views across the marsh to minsmere, an area that will be covered with spoil heaps from the construction of Sizewell C
Views across the marsh to minsmere, an area that will be covered with spoil heaps from the construction of Sizewell C

Moving on up to the top of the hill on Lovers Lane where we take the track off to the right as the road bends around to the left. An interesting feature on the OS maps at this location is an area marked as Fiscal Policy. This is thought to be a so called Trap Street, a fictitious location that is used as a copyright marker for the cartographers work. This specific fictitious location has been added to OS maps since the 1920s and has varied its exact location over the decades, although keeping within the general area of the western side of Kenton Hills. It is certainly not a location known to locals and appears on no other maps of the area other than the Ordnance Survey. It is notable that there are many references to the area of Fiscal Policy made in modern documentation written by both Suffolk Council and EDF, the Power Station operators. This goes to show the lack of local knowledge these bureaucrats and business managers have which may account for their scant respect for the surrounding landscape.

The route then heads through a car park and into the woodland through the areas known as Kenton (marked as Tenton on 19th century OS maps) and Goose Hills. The naming of the area as Hills is not self evident from the tree covered landscape. It has to be said that there is a triangulation station in the depths of Goose Hill but this is only at an altitude of 9m with the surrounding landscape no less than 5m. I guess a mere 4m high piece of land surrounded by marsh may look like a hill but it certainly is not self evident within the dense forest. The names of Kenton Hill and Goose Hill date back from long before the forest was planted, when the area was Sandlings heathland. It wasn't until the 1960s, with the coming of Sizewell Nuclear Power Station, that the heath was planted with a managed forest. Going back further in history the area is thought to have been parkland attached with the 14th century Leiston Abbey, some documents describing it as a deer park.

There are many tracks through the woods including a section of the The Sandlings long distance trail as well as specific colour coded way-marked trails. This particular route takes the unmarked perimeter paths out to the extremities of Goose Hill where there are views onto the marshes to the south of Minsmere and a purpose built hide for those who want to spend some time discovering the wildlife of the marsh. Whatever route one takes, navigating to the eastern edge one will find two footbridges which provide access across to the coastal section of this walk.

Goose Hill and Kenton Hill Woodland
Goose Hill and Kenton Hill Woodland

Sizewell beach offers both coastal heath and a shingle beach to walk along. The northern section at the point where the path emerges from the woods, was once a 19th century rifle range which I believe was also used during WWI as target practice for the troops. The beach and heath paths pass in the front of the two power stations at Sizewell and is a very popular for both tourists and locals walking through to Minsmere Sluice and beyond. For those wanting refreshments there is the Vulcan Arms pub at Sizewell as well as the Sizewell T cafe although this is closed over the winter months.

Return uses the medieval track through to Broom Covert. This was the original route between Leiston and Sizewell before the modern road was introduced in the 19th century. Broom Covert is an area of ancient Sandlings heath that is a delight to walk through and is another highlight of this walk, its contoured grassland hinting at hidden earthworks that may lie beneath. It is thought that this area was extensively used for troop training during WWII and there may be hidden structures dating from this period lying beneath the surface.

A permissive path leads across the meadow at Round Covert to Reckham Pits Wood which was originally part of Leiston Common, the woodland growing up in the early 20th century after it had been used for aggregate excavation. The mixed woodland is a much wilder landscape than that of Kenton Hills, with a cacophony of trees, foliage and fauna all competing for space, a blaze of colour and light in all seasons. Above the woodland is what is left of Leiston Common, correctly known as Leiston Dry Common to distinguish it from Leiston Wet Common which once occupied part of the marshes. The Common features in many local tales and stories of 18th century smugglers who would stash their booty in holes dug into the sandy soils of the common. There is a permissive path on the north side of the common that leads down to the marsh known as Sizewell Belts and across to Kenton Hill woods. The public footpath leads out onto Lovers Lane with a new footpath adjacent to Valley Road to take the walker back into Leiston.

Broom Covert, natural Sandlings heathland
Broom Covert, natural Sandlings heathland

It has to be stated that much of the landscape this route passes through may disappear in the next decade due to industrial usage despite its status as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The proposed Sizewell C power station will claim some of the woodland, specifically much of Goose Hill which will be replaced by an access road to the construction site and a railhead. The route of the proposed railway will run adjacent to Kenton Hills and may well devastate the fictitious area known as Fiscal Policy!. No doubt Goose Hill will be flattened with the introduction of the road, its trig point no longer applicable with the tallest structures becoming the 20-30m high spoil heaps which will dominate the landscape from the present site of Sizewell B through to Minsmere sluice and across to Eastbridge.

Public access to the woodland may become limited with no access through to the beach. The coastal access will be restricted during the construction of a loading jetty and sea defences, and the coast path may be blocked up for the duration of the build depending upon the design of the pier head that is chosen. The long distance routes of the Coast Path and the Sandlings Path will get diverted along Lovers lane and then taking the roads through to Eastbridge, a lengthy diversion along asphalt which is not conducive to committed walkers and hikers. There will no doubt be contention between road users and pedestrians, such confrontations already occur when walking the local roads so this will only get worse with the increased traffic. This re-routing is a big concern as many walkers make use of the coastal section from Sizewell through to Minsmere which makes the local area an attraction for outside visitors who may well be put off by such unpleasant walking diversions.

On the southern side of the route, Broom Covert was set to be requisitioned for the construction of Proposed East Anglia One/Two Windfarm Substations which were set to dominate the area, its buildings being some 18m in height. There was much opposition to this, the land being a prime example of Sandlings Heath and deserving of its Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty status. Fortunately it seems this threat has abated in preference to a site at Friston which itself is gaining significant opposition. The coastal land between Thorpeness and Sizewell is still threatened to be torn up and footpaths blocked up. Considering that this area is popular with both locals and visitors alike, it demonstrates the lack of local knowledge these corporations have of the area and just how much it attracts visitors. When, at a recent exhibition of the proposed development, the question about the blocking up of footpaths was put to ScottishPower Renewables, the rep seemed honestly aghast that we had walked two miles to get to the exhibition in Thorpeness. This demonstrates their lack of knowledge of the area. We walk. Two miles is around the corner. We do not want to be forced into cars. These footpaths are our access along the coast.

There are already two windfarm substations constructed at Sizewell. The big issue with all of this is each Power company appears to want their own substations whereas a more holistic and integrated policy would cause less development, less disruption and benefit all. Probably the best idea would be to have an off-shore ring main to connect all of these power sources rather than bringing the lines to a separate substations for every single wind farm that is built. However the power companies do not appear to be interested in such solutions. Cooperation appears to be a dirty word to these monolithic corporations.

To cap it all, there is an idea being put about to market this section of natural heath, marsh and sandling coastline as The Energy Coast. This is a gimmick to put a cosy name to what will be no more than industrialisation of the Suffolk Coastline. There are a lot of people out there, both local and from further afield who would prefer this to stay as a natural coast, a coast that harbours wildlife, where one can seek solace and peace, where one can sit or stand and admire the landscape, not a huge construction site under the marketed guise of The Energy Coast.

Finally, jumping the gun with the assumption that the construction of Sizewell C is a foregone conclusion, EDF have been given the permission to extend Sizewell B, destroying the 100 year old Coronation Wood in the proceess in order to accommodate a car park. This is currently being opposed by a local groups who have succeeded in forcing a judicial review in the High Court to challenge the planning decision.

Without a doubt this landscape will change drastically in the near future. Therefore if you want to enjoy this natural beauty, do so sooner rather than later or you will probably never get to see it due to the plethora of industrial constructions that are being proposed to completely devastate this area for the next 20 years and probably beyond. Gone the marsh. Gone the sandlings. Gone the peace. Gone the landscape. However, if you are into concrete landscapes, massive industrial constructions, busy roads, endless traffic, hoards of lorries then you will be in your element.

Thursday 9 August 2018

Leiston to Reckford Circular Walk Summary

Salt marsh

A circular walk encapsulating Leiston Airfield, Theberton woods and the Minsmere River

Few may have heard of Reckford and indeed as a location it is pretty much lost in the landscape. There is a Reckford Road in the neighbouring village and there is a 16th century Reckford Farmhouse and there is the Reckford Bridge but to all intents and purposes the community of Reckford is not recognised, just a small area of the village of Middleton. Whether the area was ever judged to be a village is unknown. Nonetheless we will make it the destination of this circular walk.

The walk has much to feast ones eyes upon. The former WWII Leiston airbase commonly known as RAF Leiston hosted the USAF 357th Fighter Group who were locally known as the Yoxford Boys. Little is left although there is a memorial that pays homage to the US crews that flew out of this airfield and never returned. There are some hidden remnants in the landscape, a broken up runway that crosses the farmland, old buildings that have camoflaged themselves in the undergrowth and now either lie redundant of have been put to use as farm buildings.

The walk continues onto the broadleaved woodland known as Theberton Woods before navigating down the quiet country lanes and tracks to Reckford.

Return is along the banks of the Minsmere river to Eastbridge then back to Leiston via the Abbey ruins.

Thursday 7 January 2021

In Search of Leiston Gibbet, Friday Market Heath and St Andrews Green

Land by the River Hundred at Aldringham

A 6 mile walk around the heaths and commons of Coldfair Green

This walk follows an investigation to seek out the location of the Leiston Gibbet and an area of heathland that was known in the 1600's as Friday Market Heath. The only reference to these places comes from an old book from 1910 entitled 'The Chronicles of Theberton' which details the route past the gibbet. This walk attempts to retrace this route by navigating along the heathland and footpaths around the River Hundred which marks the boundary between the hundreds of Blything and Plomestead. Extensive research which has been undertaken and documented in the feature of this walk with some revealing insights to long forgotten places.

Tuesday 7 January 2020

In Search of the Lost City of Dunwich

A circular walk between Leiston and Dunwich

This walk uses the beach and the Sandlings Path to provide a days walk to Dunwich from Leiston via Sizewell. One should time this walk such that the beach is walked a couple of hours either side of low tide when there is a little sand to walk along. At other times the beach is predominantly shingle and the walker may find it easier to follow the Suffolk Coast Path which is waymarked from the north side of Minsmere where it continues up onto the cliffs.

Saturday 18 August 2018

The Sandlings Walk - Knodishall to Sizewell Belts

Sizewell Belts

A 9 mile circular walk that links Knodishall and Sizewell Belts along Suffolk's Sandlings Trail

An easy walk across the typical heaths and commons of Coastal East Suffolk that make up the Sandlings. There is woodland, marsh, and rambling sandy heath full of flora fauna and wildlife.

NOTE: The section from Sizewell through to Leiston Common, Sizewell Belts is no longer part of the official Sandlings path. It has been rerouted along the beach in front of the power station and then through Kenton Hill woods. This Sizewell Belts walk as described here is still accessible using permissive paths.

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