Inland Walk between Cley and Blakeney ~ Griffmonsters Great Walks

A 6 mile walk taking in the Wiveton Downs as an alternative to the coastal route between Cley and Blakeney

An alternative route to the Norfolk Coast Path between Cley and Blakeney taking in the high ground across Wiveton Downs. Spectacular views of the coastline can be had from this area and the route also includes the Shell Museum at Glandford and the dominating church at Cley

Walk Statistics

Start location: Crabpot Bookshop, Cley
End location: Blakeney Quay
Distance: miles ( km)
Total Gain: ft ( metre)
Total Descent: ft ( metre)
Min Height: ft ( metre)
Max Height: ft ( metre)
Est. Walk Time:
Walk type: Linear
Walk Grade: Easy
Terrain: Footpaths, permissive paths, tracks and quiet lanes
Obstacles: There are steps up to the Wiveton Downs

Maps

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map: OS Explorer 251 - Norfolk Coast Central
GPX Route File

Accommodation

Woodhill Park CampsiteView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Website: https://www.woodhill-park.com/
Description: Located on the clifftops at East Runton, half way between Sheringham and Cromer, this highly recommended touring site is ideal for exploring North Norfolk with public transport available to many destinations from the entrance to the site.

Transport

Various Operators - Bus Service

Service Details: Coasthopper CH1, CH2, CH3 - The Coasthopper services link Hunstantion, Wells-next-the-Sea, Sheringham, Cromer, Mundesley and North Walsham including all intermediate villages. See the Traveline website to determine the current timetables and services.
Timetable: www.traveline.info

Walk Notes

The Norfolk Coast Path is the usual route for most walkers navigating the North Norfolk Coast. However, there are times when the path becomes inaccessible, as demonstrated by the December 2013 storm surge, or when one simply wants a different view. In either case, this alternative route provides a worthwhile excursion away from the coast and features outstanding views, historic buildings, and even a shell museum.

The first distinctive sight on the trail is the magnificent Church of St Margaret at Cley. In the 16th century it faced the harbour quay, which occupied the present-day meadows following the River Glaven through to Wiveton. At that time, Cley was a prosperous trading port, exporting cloth woven from local wool, salt fish, and agricultural products to ports around the Bay of Biscay, the Baltic, and even Iceland. However, as the 17th century began, the port went into decline. A major fire in 1612 destroyed most of the port buildings around the church, resulting in the rebuilding and expansion of the village to the north, away from the quay. Then, in 1638, a sluice was installed across the mouth of the River Glaven, preventing merchant ships from accessing the river. Despite a petition opposing this, which resulted in the sluice being removed two years later, the damage had already been done and the village continued its decline as a port. The river soon silted up, and eventually another sluice was installed across the river mouth in 1824.

The church of St Margaret at Cley from across the marsh

The connection with the village’s trading prosperity still lingers in the French names of many houses. Another reminder is the quayside wall that still stands alongside Glandford Road, with a rebuilt section easily distinguishable in front of the more modern houses lining the road and looking out across the former quayside. Local folklore states that the church once housed statues of the twelve apostles, which were dumped into the harbour during the 16th century. Although there is no firm evidence of such an event, one might speculate that it could have occurred when Thomas Cromwell and his men toured East Anglia after the English Reformation, tasked with defacing and destroying religious artefacts. If this did happen, the statues would almost certainly have been carried away by tidal currents, and it is doubtful they would have remained in the meadows that later formed across the silted-up estuary. Despite this, numerous attempts have been made to locate the treasures, so far without success.

A quiet lane away from Cley leads to the ford across the River Glaven at Glandford. There is a footbridge here, and one can view the former post-medieval watermill to the north of the ford, now converted into a private house. To the south, a permissive footpath leads to a tea room on the Bayfield Hall estate, but for this walk the enticement was declined. That will be another walk, another day, and another exploration.

Glandford village consists of typical Norfolk flint-walled cottages, a church, and a shell museum adjacent to the church. It is worth timing one’s walk to coincide with midday to hear the church bells ring the hour. St Martin’s Church has a carillon of twelve bells, which play a hymn tune every three hours between 6 a.m. and 9 p.m., with a different tune each day. On the occasion we visited, it performed a magnificent and distinctive rendition of Once in Royal David’s City. Not knowing such an event was about to take place, it was a pleasant surprise—one that stops any passer-by in their footsteps: a fixed gaze at the church tower, a tentative listen to the music, then admiration and almost laughter at its anarchic departure from the traditional church clock chime.

The chimes finished. The museum beckoned.

At that point, the museum’s curator wandered past and asked if we wanted to visit. One can’t refuse a visit to a village shell museum after walking to a village with a shell museum. I cannot think of another village with such an attraction. What, indeed, was a shell museum?

This small flint-walled hall, with high windows, has a light and airy interior housing a collection of shells from across the world, all displayed in glass cabinets. Not just shells, though, but fossils, archaeological finds, and even birds’ eggs, among other things. The collection originates from the late Sir Alfred Jodrell of Bayfield Hall, with clear additions from later donations. Fascinating. There is a small entrance fee. No photos allowed. No touching. But reading the captions is permitted! A worthy hour of intrigue, and something not to be passed by. After all, where else would one find a shell museum?

Beyond Glandford, a quiet lane leads in the general direction of Blakeney. It is a single-track road with few passing places for any vehicles that attempt to negotiate it. Road? Well, it does have a tarmac surface, but the centre and edges are strewn with sandy heaps where vegetation struggles to survive. High hedgerows mask the views on either side. Not that there is much to see at this point, as the road lies in a dip, with land rising on both sides.

Then, after a bend in the road, a waymarker on the right points into the vegetation. A permissive path, unmarked on OS maps. This leads up a series of wooden steps, climbing a steep incline to the top of the hill, where one is greeted by a quite spectacular view of the coastline. For the uninitiated, this is breathtaking. The transition from an almost hidden lane to such an outstanding vista is truly gob-smacking.

This is Wiveton Downs, part of the Blakeney Esker—a ridge running from Glandford to the west of Blakeney village. It is covered with gorse, fern, and beech trees, with winding paths and noticeboards describing its history, flora, and wildlife. In spring, English bluebells are said to carpet the area, while butterflies and birds populate the downs in summer. The esker has been used since ancient times, with settlements dating from the Roman period and Bronze Age burial grounds found near Morston. Over the centuries, the downs were a rich source of building material, with quarrying continuing until 1990, when the area was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest. It is now managed by Norfolk County Council, which uses controlled fires, intensive rabbit grazing, and gorse cutting to prevent it from reverting to woodland. Local folklore suggests the area was once covered in heather until wartime, when an uncontrolled fire burned it away, leaving bare gravel on which gorse later took hold.

All in all, this walk is a discovery of Norfolk’s wonders and is highly recommended for anyone visiting the area. A full circular route can be made by walking the additional three miles along the coast path back to Cley. Alternatively, one can always catch the Coasthopper bus service back to the starting point.

Directions

Quiet lanes, footpaths both public and permissive are used to negotiate this walk

Start at the Crabpot Bookshop opposite the path to Cley Windmill, Cley next the Sea (NR25 7RN). Grid ref. TG 045 439

From the Crabpot Bookshop along A149, take the public footpath that leads down the side of it. This leads onto the lane at the back of Cley. Turn left along the lane through to the church.

(1) Cross the churchyard and walk out onto the road by the green. Cross the green and take the Glandford road South which follows the Glaven valley. Note the flint wall on the left which is said to be the medieval quay wall. Across the valley are views of the church at Wiveton. Pass over the Wiveton road and continue until it junctions with the road (Hurdle Lane) into Glandford.

(2) Turn right, cross the ford via the footbridge and enter the village. The Shell Museum and church are on the left. Leave the village on the same road North-West and cross straight over at the road junction. Keep to this until there is a slow double bend. On the right is a waymarker pointing into the hedgerow.

(3) Follow this which will lead up a series of steps to the top of the ridge where outstanding views of the coast can be seen. Take the path on the left that runs parallel with the top of the ridge. Keep to the main path through to a car park. A path on the far side leads down to the road where another path continues on the opposite side. Keep to this, veering off to the left when it branches.

(4) Keep to the left until it meets a road. Take the track on the opposite side and keep to this until it meets another road. Cross straight over and follow the next track. Where this meets Kettlehill Plantation woodland, take the footpath on the left that follows the perimeter of the wood.

(5) Keep to the footpath as it leads around the wood then continue down to the main coast road (A149). Cross over the road and take the footpath a hundred yards on up the road on the left to lead down to the Coast Path.

(6) Turn right (East) and follow the Coast Path. As you reach The Quay road, turn right into Blakeney. (E)

A full circular route can be made by walking the additional three miles along the coast path to link back to Cley. Alternatively one can always jump on the Coasthopper bus service back to Cley.

Directions

Quiet lanes, footpaths both public and permissive are used to negotiate this walk

Start at the Crabpot Bookshop opposite the path to Cley Windmill, Cley next the Sea (NR25 7RN). Grid ref. TG 045 439

From the Crabpot Bookshop along A149, take the public footpath that leads down the side of it. This leads onto the lane at the back of Cley. Turn left along the lane through to the church.

(6) Turn right (East) and follow the Coast Path. As you reach The Quay road, turn right into Blakeney. (E)

A full circular route can be made by walking the additional three miles along the coast path to link back to Cley. Alternatively one can always jump on the Coasthopper bus service back to Cley.

Pubs

Kings Arms, Blakeney View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Address: Westgate Street, Blakeney
Website: https://www.kingsarmsblakeney.co.uk/

The pub is recognisable, when approaching from the coast road heading towards the quay, by the distinct characters spelled out in black on the red pantile roofing declaring 'FH 1760'. The 1760 is a reference to when the roof was replaced, however the reason for initials 'FH' are lost in time although it is thought they may have referred to the then owner. There is also speculation that this was the date that the building first became an Inn but the name appears to refer back to earlier times. Many pubs obtained royal names after the restoration of the monarchy in 1660 after the period of Puritan rule. This is also borne out in the royal crest which is displayed on the southern wall of the building.

The interior is decorated with memorabilia of old musical hall stars and movie posters. This highlights the career of the former pub owner, Howard Davies, who had a long career which included working with the Black and White minstrels as well as appearing in acting parts for both television and films. Additional items on display are numerous clocks which reflect Howards lifelong interest in horology. Sadly Mr Davies passed away in 2010, but the pub has been retained within the family and is now managed by his son Nic.

The pub is renowned for its fish and seafood dishes and have a specials board that changes daily. Ale from Greene King plus gravity fed barrels of ale from Woodfordes that sit under cooling jackets behind the bar.

Review (2013-09-20)

A rewarding end to an excellent days walk with a pint of Woodfordes Nelsons Revenge straight from the barrel.

Features

Cley ChurchView in OS Map | View in Google Map

In the middle ages the village of Cley was a wealthy port made rich from trade with sea going vessels exporting their cargo of wools and fish. As such the village afforded a large and magnificent church dedicated to St Margaret which overlooked the harbour quay at the time and dominates the scenery across the Glaven valley.

This flint walled edifice was constructed in the 14th and 15h centuries and consists of a large nave with an offset tower and transepts to the north and south, the north one being nothing more than a ruin whilst the southern one is roofless. The first rector of the church was Hubert de Stanham who was instituted in 1319 during a period when the church was still under construction. Unfortunately during this period the bubonic plague struck the area resulting in the loss of the master mason William Ramsey and his son. This resulted in the building work being halted for half a century until both trade and population had recovered from this pestilence.

The English Reformation of the 16th century brought more change and all building work on the church was then stopped. It is during this period that local folklore states that statues of the 12 stone apostles and Jesus Christ were stripped from the church were dumped into the harbour. A geophysical survey of the harbour took place in 2004 in attempt to locate these without success. Another search using laser technology was conducted in 2014 with out result.