SWCP - Portland Circular Walk

A 13.5 mile walk along the South West Coast Path around the Isle of Portland

A fascinating wander around the Isle of Portland, the peninsular that lies on the southern tip of Weymouth. Not overly challenging but with a few climbs and descents. The coastline is full of the relics and remnants of the quarries where the renowned Portland Stone was extracted. The tip of the island features the Portland Bill lighthouse and is a major tourist attraction in this part of the world, although few of these visitors take the coast path to get there.

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South West Coast Path - Langton Herring to Weymouth

A 10 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Langton Herring and Weymouth

An easy walk following Chesil Beach through to Weymouth. The path follows the contours of the land keeping close to the shore. At Weymouth the eastern coastline spreads out eastwards presenting the next challenge.

This section of the South West Coast Path was set around a base camp at the Bagwell touring site at Langton Herring. This site is close to the road into Weymouth providing easy access to public transport and close to the Coast Path with footpaths leading down to the trail just below Langton Herring village. The path follows the waterline of the Fleet, the enclosed waters that sit between the mainland and Chesil Beach, the large shingle Bank that stretches all the way through to Portland, the island at the southern tip of Weymouth.

The path cuts across a small headland known as Herbury and then past Moonfleet Manor House a large 30 room Georgian building used as a hotel and spa. The house is the central location for the namesake novel by J. Mead Faulkner set in times when piracy and smuggling abounded. The name of the house is derived from Maximillion Mohune who built the house, literally Mohunes of Fleet which was corrupted to Moonfleet.

The walk is easy and relaxed with no real challenges, more like an amble in the park rather than a hike along the South West Coast Path. Given a glorious sunny day such as that when this instance of the walk was undertaken, it really is an utter pleasure to wander.

The path on this section ends at Ferry Bridge, the connecting point between the mainland and Portland where a road leads across to the island via the Ferry Bridge. The Ferry Bridge Inn stood here, in a prominent position with views across to Portland and westwards along the Fleet. One would have thought such a position would deem it to be a busy pub but certainly this was not the case on visiting during this walk when we were the only patrons. The pub has since closed and has subsequently been demolished.

The coast path continues with a circular walk around Portland. That is a section left for another walk day and detailed on Portland Circular Walk. For this walk we continue into Weymouth town, following the route of the former Portland Branch Line. The path diverges from the old trackbed at the Nothe Peninsular where a 19th century fort sits at its head. This peninsular forms a natural harbour on its northern side where the River Wey drains into the sea. One one can walk up to the Town Bridge to cross the river, but it is much more fun to take the ferry and witness the numerous sailing craft moored on either side. A fish eye view of the river. Well a sailors eye view anyway. On this expedition the Pelican sailing ship was moored in the harbour. Built in 1948 this tall ship made its living as an arctic trawler before being restored in 2007 and subsequently used as a sail training ship. A magnificent sight.

The town of Weymouth sits on a sheltered bay at the mouth of the River Wey. It was built as a prominent seaport whose trade dates back to medieval times. In these modern times it thrives on tourism and is an unabashed, unashamed English seaside resort with all the connotations that one expects from such. Kiss me quick hats. Ice Cream. Sandy Beaches where holidaymakers soak up the sun. Not the place for the rural aficionado such as myself but nonetheless it still presents that sense of arrival. After walking the coast path from Exmouth, this is the first major town and such civilisation marks an arrival, a completion of a major section. Because Weymouth and Portland jut out into the English Channel the coast eastwards is always hidden from view when walking from the west. From Weymouth a whole new challenge is presented ahead with the coastline stretching around to Lulworth and Kimmeridge and beyond.

There are buses from Weymouth back to the campsite including the Jurassic Coast service which runs past the site entrance. Later buses run through to Chickerell which is a short one mile walk back to the campsite. On this occasion a later bus was caught which did present the unwitting passenger to the less salubrious side of the town where Feral youths stand in the road purposefully forcing the bus to stop with scowls on their faces and abusive words from their mouths and sign language that did not take someone who was proficient in such skills to interpret. It is a sad fact that such reprobates fail to see the beauty that is around them. This coast is a glory with so much to explore yet they appear to restrict themselves to the concrete urbanisation.

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South West Coast Path - Portland Circular walk/Weymouth to Osmington Mills

This was the sixth stage of 10 days walk along the Jurassic Coast section of the South West Coast Footpath between Exmouth and Poole. This was the day of the important England vs Slovenia football match which if England lost would most likely dump them out of the World Cup. The viewing of this game was all planned into the walk, so the morning would be taken up with walking the Portland circuit, then after the game we would walk up to Osmington Mills.

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SWCP - Weymouth to Osmington

A 5.6 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Weymouth and Osmington

A reasonably easy wander along the South West Coast Path out of Weymouth heading east. The end of the walk navigates along the inland section of the path to Osmington where buses return to Weymouth.

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South West Coast Path - West Bay to Abbotsbury

A 9 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between West Bay and Abbotsbury

One of the easier sections of the South West Coast Path as the cliffs taper down to present the start of Chesil Beach, a vast shingle bank that stretches from Abbotsbury through to Portland.

The climb out of West Bay is a steep ascent up to 45m and the summit of East Cliff. This is the only real challenge on this walk. The cliffs become notably smaller and the going becomes easier. At Buron Bradstock the path descends back down to beach level and follows the perimeter of a holiday park along the side of the River Bride to a bridge although the water looks shallow and placid enough to wade across as the river twists around the shingle and exudes across the beach.

By the time one gets to Codgen Beach there are no cliffs, just the beach that merges into the grassy landscape with an undulating hillscape beyond. Ahead Portland clearly shows itself. The path leads across the head of the beach and at times it is difficult going underfoot. It is a relief to head on the grassy paths that lead behind Burton Mere but it eventually leads back onto the shingle beach.

Beyond Bexington the path improves and continues through to where it heads inland to Abbotsbury, circling around the base of Chapel Hill, where St Catherines Chapel sits ominously on its summit. At this point the coast path doubles back on itself to continue on to Langton Herring. On this instance of the walk, with having to travel from Salcombe Regis using public transport, it left little time for walking. This is the furthest distance that was used from tht specific campsite, reloating to Langton Herring the next day. In retrospect it would have been more convienient to have undertaken this walk from the Langton Herring campsite.

The bus stop in Abbotsbury is outside the Illchester Arms, a 17th century former coaching inn that is well worth paying a visit, the interior welcoming and cosy with its oak beamed ceilings. The pub is said to be haunted and there are numerous ghostly tales associated with the inn including the sounds of coins jangling by a ghostly coin collector, a spectre of a woman who haunts the toilets and the apparition of a Royalist Soldier from the civil war who was reputedly hanged here when caught by Parliamentarians.

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South West Coast Path - Osmington to Lulworth

A 7 mile walk along the South West Coast Path From Osmington to Lulworth Cove

A spectacular but demanding walk along the Dorset section of the South West Coast Path. The huge undulating cliffs present challenges to overcome but the scenery is magnificent beyond doubt that will leave one gasping in awe. Probably one of the most iconic sections of the whole south West Coast Path culminating in familiar landmark of Durdle Door.

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Lincolnshire Coast Path - Cleethorpes to Mablethorpe

A 23 mile walk along the Lincolnshire Coast between Cleethorpes and Mablethorpe

Although a Lincolnshire Coast Path has yet to be established, this walk sets out a viable route for all budding coast walkers. This follows defence banks and permissive paths with a little road walking where necessary.

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South West Coast Path - Charmouth to West Bay

A challenging 8 mile hike along the South West Coast Path between Charmouth and West Bay

At only 8 miles, do not underestimate this walk. It is an arduous hike over the hills and across the valleys of coastal Dorest. The highlight is the peak of Golden Cap, which at 191m is the highest point on the English South Coast. The golden greensand rock that crowns the cliff top is what gives this peak its name.

This walk was due to start at Lyme Regis but a cliff fall had taken a section of the coast path and the only method to walk between the town and Charmouth was to use the main coast road which is certainly not conducive to most ramblers. The path has subsequently been reinstated with a route that cuts across timber Hill and minimizes the use of the road.

From Charmouth the route takes a country lane known as Stonebarrow Lane which quite naturally leads up Stonebarrow Hill with a slow and steady climb. At its 148m summit, the path heads to the cliff side then follows the cliff top paths. The going now gets tougher as the path descends to the valley where Westhay Water cascades down, launching itself off the cliffs below and onto the shingle beach. There is a short climb across the following ridge and back down to Ridge Water and another cascading stream that terminates itself in a similar manner. All the time Golden Cap is looming in the distance, beckoning with its challenge. Drawing the walker onwards, but first, another valley needs to be crossed first, Gabriels Mouth. The name is probably derived from a forgotten village known as Stanton St Gabriel which used to lie up the valley. The ruins of the church still exist but other than a farmhouse the village is lost in the landscape.

The ascent of Golden Cap now begins from the bottom of the valley at 40m. After the initial climb out of the valley the path flattens out a little before the major climb up the zigzagging path to the summit. A total climb of 151m. A lot of effort but oh so worth it. At the top the views are outstanding, behind one can view the panorama all around Lyme Bay and beyond. Ahead the coast tapers down to Chesil Beach and on the horizon Portland can be seen.

There is a steady descent from Golden Cap down to the hamlet of Seatown where the Anchor Inn pub is perched above the beach. Benches parade the broad grassy garden overlooking the beach and offers the ideal opportunity to celebrate ones efforts thus far. Palmers ales are on offer and a real thirst quencher. On this occasion the temperatures were an unusually balmy hot summers day with clear blue skies and a summer sun blazing with all its fury.

From Seatown the path climbs up to Ridge Cliff then continues over Doghouse Hill and Thorncombe Beacon before descending down to Eype Mouth. A stream trickles below a wooden footbridge then disappears into the shingle beach. Boats lie upturned in the shelter of the grassy banks of the valley.

There is a final hurdle over West Cliff into West Bay. One may expect another little village nestled in the valley but West Bay has grown over the years and is full of modern conurbations and chips stalls that surround the little harbour. All a little brash after the rural settings encountered on route. The river Brit flows out through the harbour. Originally known as the River Wooth, it had a name change with the establishment of Bridport.

One can continue onwards to Burton Bradstock but for this day, with the draining heat and the arduous climbs the walk was terminated at West Bay and legs were rested at The George Hotel where more of the delicious Palmers Ales were consumed with a spot of lunch.

At the time of walking this route there was a bus service all the way through from West Bay to Salcombe Regis where we had set up base camp. This no longer appears to be the case although there are buses that link West Bay with Charmouth. On this occasion it seemed a good choice to return to Charmouth to explore a little more.

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