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Saturday, 2 October 2010

Saxmundham to Kelsale Circular Walk

Saxmundham from the junction with the Sizewell branch line

At least once a year I have my car serviced in Saxmundham. The time it takes to complete the service doesnt warrant a return journey to Leiston. So, with an hour or two to kill, here is a very enjoyable way to pass that time. Of course you don't have to get your car serviced to do this walk, you can just walk it for the sheer sake of walking it and I won't tell! On this particular instance of the walk there had been a lot of overnight heavy rain so some of the footpaths were a little slippery and muddy but nothing to deter your average walker with a decent pair of walking boots. The walk ambles along the side of the East Suffolk railway line and then through the pretty village of Kelsale before returning across the fields via Carlton to Sax . There is plenty to see en route. A most rewarding little walk.

Monday, 17 December 2018

Tales of Sundials, Witchcraft and Ghostly happenings in Saxmundham

A 2 mile circular walk around the Suffolk town of Saxmundham using the Town Trail

A simple tour of Saxmundham that can be added onto the East Suffolk Line Walks or to while away a couple of hours on a lazy afternoon, including searching out the unique tombstone sundial in St Johns churchyard, and finding the haunted Monks Cottages.

Tales of witchcraft, sundials and ghostly happenings in Saxmundham - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

  • Start location: Saxmundham 
  • Distance:   miles (  km)
  • Total Gain:   ft (  metre)
  • Total Descent:   ft (  metre)
  • Min Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Max Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Walk Time:  
  • Walk type: Circular
  • Walk Grade: Easy
  • Terrain:

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Route Verification Details

  • Date of Walk: 2012-02-11
  • Walk Time: 08:30 to 10:30
  • Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
  • Weather Conditions: Cold but sunny winters day

Walk Notes

This walk was the result of being told about a gravestone in the churchyard at Saxmundham that had a working sundial designed into its stone. Having failed to locate this unique artefact on a previous visit, I was all the more resolute on finding it on this occasion. So, after wandering around the town trail musing over the railway, the old mill, the Monks Cottages and the River Fromus we arrived at the church. There is a block of graves to the south west but nothing obvious at first sight. On closer inspection the grave eventually revealed itself and what a wonder this simple yet effective tool is. Although the low sun was not strong enough to cast a shadow on this winters day, the simplicity of how this should work was obvious. A rectangular section with a semi-circular bottom graduated into hours and a shadow cast by the edge of the rectangle. A true wonder. Read more about this below in the walk features.

Although there is no firm evidence it is thought that Saxmundham takes its name from a Saxon thegn (a Saxon lord) named Seismund. There are references to the manor of Saxmundham in the Domesday Book of 1086 and in 1272 Henry III awarded a charter to John de Rammseye for Saxmundham to hold a market.

Saxmundham used to have plenty of pubs including the 16th century Angel Inn, closed in 1977 and now marked with a plaque above its door, plus also retaining its notable crinkle-crankle wall at the rear, the Railway (closed 2009) and the Coopers Dip (closed 2011). Sadly the last pub left in the town, the 17th century White Hart, closed its doors at the start of 2012. This is a sad reflection of the times we live in with pubs unable to compete with the cheap discounted booze available in supermarkets and the British Government appearing to be bent on a crusade against the demon drink and pubs in general. During the past few years the number of pubs around this part of Suffolk that have closed down is staggering. Not only we, the British public, are losing a place for refreshment and social interaction but we are also losing some of what can only be described as historic public buildings. It is so sad that many of these old inns and taverns dating from the middle ages will end up as private dwellings and we will never be able to sit and admire them from within. There is no doubt about it that we ARE losing our heritage. Having got off my soap-box, I must admit that the Coopers Dip and the Railway were not the most salubrious of establishments towards the end of their public lives. I speak from personal experience of having to attend Sunday evening pool games at both of these pubs where we had to dodge the frequent brawls and foul language, but this cannot be blamed solely upon the drink but also upon the management of such premises who allow these reprobates to drink too much. Today, there is just one bar left in the town, that at the Bell Hotel, but I have been reliably informed that this now only accepts custom from residents. What a sad state of affairs it is when a town the size of Saxmundham boasts no pubs at all.

For this posting I don't want to dwell upon the historic features around the walk as these are all well covered on the trail pages to the town website (http://www.saxmundham.org/touristinfo/towntrail.html) and I would merely be repeating the same facts. So please refer to this for a little history and information about the Railway Station, the old post-mill, the towns old buildings, the parish church of St John, and the town museum. Instead, for this post, I will concentrate on the walks aim, which was to find the gravestone sundial and also recount a tale from Saxmundham that was published in a variety of publications during the 19th century. As a finale there is a little ghost story from the Monks cottages. With these anecdotes, take a wander around this little town and as you peruse the physical remains of the history of Sax, also ponder over the local tales, the folklore that gives the physical history something of a soul. All of these investigations acan be found in the Features below.

Market Hall
Market Hall

Directions

A simple trail around the town of Saxmundham

Head to the railway station which is pretty much in the town centre. From here, continue across the railway line and up Albion Street until it bends to the right and junctions with Rendham Road. Turn left past the post-mill then left into Mill Road. Continue down the road, over the railway crossing and then turn right at the cross roads into South Entrance. Walk past the town sign next to Chantry House and up to the last housing in town which is Monks Cottages. Cross the road and return back into town then turn right at the crossroads past the supermarket car park, over the river bridge and up into St Johns churchyard. Return back down towards the town and cross the Waitrose car park and cut through into Fromus Square and back out onto the main street. Turn right and if you continue about a quarter of a mile beyond Brook Farm Road there is the entrance to Carlton Hall. Return back into town along North Entrance and under the railway bridge then bearing right in front of the old Angel pub to get back to the railway station.

Gravestone showing the distinctive rectangular sundialThe sundial clearly showing the hour markings
On the left Gravestone showing the distinctive rectangular sundial; On the right The sundial clearly showing the hour markings

Features

Saxmundham Tombstone with Integral SundialView in OS Map | View in Google Map

There is no recorded documentation as to why the grave of John Nollar that stands on the south west corner of St Johns churchyard, has a carved sundial contained within its stone. We do know that John Nollar was born in Rendham in 1667 to Thomas and Anne Nollar. He married Mary, born in 1670 but whose origins are unknown, and together they had 5 children, John, Mary, Thomas, Joseph and Anne. Mary passed away on 13th March 1724 followed by Johns passing on 1 August 1725 and they were both buried in St Johns churchyard and marked with a single headstone with the inscription . "The Remains of John Nollar Snr. and Mary his wife whose soul took flight John Nollars 1st August 1725 aged 58 years and Mary Nollar his wife...." after which the remaining inscription is concealed by the earth and grass.

The headstone faces an east west orientation along with the rest of the stones on that section of the churchyard. On each side of the stone there is a 3 inch rectangular recess that forms a half cylinder and is essentially a sundial. The recesses are on a slant to the vertical so that they point to the north star and are thus parallel to the earth's axis. Within the recesses are lined parallel graduations with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 on the west side and 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 on the east side. The beauty about the design of this sundial is that it lacks a gnomon, the pointer that casts the shadow. Whoever designed this sundial came up with an ingenious solution which makes the edge of the recess the gnomon and this casts its shadow down into the recess with midday not marked as both recesses will be in shadow.

The sundial is said to be extremely accurate but the designer has no credit and the reason for its inclusion not revealed. Nonetheless this is a most remarkable and ingenious piece of handiwork that is well worth seeking out.

The Strange Tale of Magdalen HolydayView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Magdalen Holyday was the eighteen year old daughter of Rendham couple Phineas and Martha Holyday and was a live-in servant-maid to Mr. Simon Jones, minister of Saxmundham. She had been in his employ for three years when this tale came about and had earned a reputation of being a well behaved and decent young lady, civil in her speech and dutiful in her religion. She had been brought up as a loyal subject to the king and had renounced the likes of Oliver Cromwell and all what he stood for.

This tale starts in the year of 1672, on a day known as Lammas, the festival of the wheat harvest, August 1. This particular year it occurred on a Monday and at noon of that day, as expected, she was serving dinner to the parson, his wife and their daughter Rebecca who at the time was about to be married to a gospel minister from Yoxford. As Magdalen placed a suet dumpling down on a plate, she let out a loud shriek and stooped down in pain complaining that she had felt a sting on her upper leg as if a pin had pierced it. When she investigated she could see and feel a pin just under the surface of her skin but there was no break in the tissue for it to have gotten there. The pain was unrelenting and from this point on tormented her both day and night.

In these bygone days Suffolk was renowned for the number of witches who practised in the black arts and Magdalen had soon connected the fact that only a few days previous to her affliction she had denied an old crone who had come to the door of the house and begged a pin. This, she had assumed, was the repayment for her actions, a hex brought about by the witch she had denied.

It wasn't many days before the ministers wife, concerned for Magdalens welfare, sent for the assistance of two local doctors, both of high repute and well experienced in their professions. Despite their qualifications neither was able to detect or trace any evidence of a pin within Magdalens leg. She insisted that the pin was there but had worked itself deeper into her skin. As was the custom of those days, the doctors prescribed leeches to draw the blood but to no avail. The minister, meanwhile, offered his godly prayers and rang the church bells to try to chase the demons away but Magdalen's pains continued unabated, getting worse, now giving her dreams and apparitions at night. Sometimes she would see a creature resembling a mole scurrying into her bed, sometimes a terrorizing naked arm grasped across her body as she lay in bed.

Eventually, after much discussion, the doctors took her to the Baronet Sir John Rouse of Henham, a Member of Parliament for Dunwich and Eye and upon his jurisdiction they gave her a concoction consisting of southernwood, an antiseptic plant with a strong camphor-like odour, mugwort, commonly known as wormwood and vervain. This she was then required to drink. They also anointed her leg with an ointment made from four ounces of Dog's grease mixed with two ounces of bear's fat, eight ounces of capon's grease, 24 slips of mistletoe, cut in pieces and powdered with gum of Venice turpentine. This mixture was mixed and left in a phial exposed to the sun for nine days until it formed a green balsam. She was then required to rub this into her skin daily for three weeks.

She carried out the prescription as required but her ailments became worse, causing constant sickness during which she vomited a variety of items including parings of nails, bits of spoons, triangular pieces of brass, crooked pins, bodkins, lumps of red hair, broken egg-shells, parchment shavings, a hen's leg bone, 1200 worms, pieces of glass, bones resembling the great teeth of a horse, some unidentified luminous matter and sal petri (this is the name for nitrate of potash, a salt which produces dreadful effects when largely taken). After all this, as the medical practitioners were giving up hope she brought up with a violent retching, a whole row of pins stuck on blew paper.

After this the vomiting ceased and she began to recover. Naturally the Doctors perceived that it was their potent drugs that had been the cure. But who knows, maybe it was the witches curse, how else did so many and varied amount of items manage to get lodged into her stomach to be vomited up. Magdalen went on to live a happy life, her afflictions never to return. She married an honest but poor man who was the steward to Sir John Heveninghara to whom she bore four healthy children.

References

A Spooky Tale from the Monks CottagesView in OS Map | View in Google Map

On the South Entrance to Saxmundham, as the road leaves the town, on the right hand side on the road, there are a group of cottages with a plaque high up on the wall declaring them to be Monks Cottages. At one time, during the 1600's these used to be a part of a very large and grand manor house. Prior to this, in the 14th century, the site housed several chapels known as chantries. Before we go into further detail, it is vital to know that during the middle-ages there was a general belief that after death the soul passed into purgatory, which was a place of temporary punishment where the soul is made ready for Heaven. Prayers for the deceased would assist and promote their passage and purification within purgatory and funds known as a chantries were set up which would be used to pay for a priest to lodge petition in prayer once the benefactor had died. The Chantry Chapel was the name for a designated area, usually within a church, that was used for the chantry duties of the priests, the place the priests would recite their prayers and chant their masses for those who had passed on.

In the year 2000, one of the cottages was occupied by a Doreen Pelletier. She had lived there for 13 years when she decided to clear out the cellar which had been littered with rubble since she first moved into the house 13 years previous. For the job she hired a group of builders, but soon after they had started to dig around in the cellar, the electric light went and switched itself off. This was the start of many spooky happenings which eventually resulted in the builders quitting the job, declaring the place to be haunted and suggesting that Doreen get an exorcist in.

Doing a little research Doreen learned that the previous owners had their own spooky experiences in the cottage. The lady of the house had encountered a ghostly figure on the stairs and eventually, after many other strange happenings within the cottage, the owners called in an exorcist. Knowing this, Doreen covered the cellar with a trap door and then called in BBC2's House Detective team, a series dedicated to investigating the secret histories of houses, to help solve the mystery. She was initially asked to take photographs for the programme but when she pulled up the trap door and tried to take a picture, the camera jammed and then mysteriously rewound itself.

The Series two presenters historian Dan Cruickshank and antiques specialist Judith Miller soon discovered from local records that Doreen's home had indeed been built on the site of one of these 'chantry's'. And after clearing her cellar, it was obvious that was what it had been - complete with shelves for candles. The episode was originally screened on BBC2 in 2002 but unfortunately I have not been able to locate a youtube version of this and therefore the outcome of the investigation is unknown. The only conclusion from the references found was that after the visit from the House Detectives, things quietened down. But who knows. Maybe whilst walking past this ancient building, maybe you may just catch a distant sound of a ghostly chanting monk.

References
Monks Cottages, probably the oldest houses in Saxmundham and featured on the December 09, 2000 episode of TV series The House Detectives where they investigated a spooky underground room
Monks Cottages, probably the oldest houses in Saxmundham and featured on the December 09, 2000 episode of TV series The House Detectives where they investigated a spooky underground room

Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2021-12-07

2012-02-22 : Initial publication
2018-12-17 : General website updates
2021-03-17 : Update website improvements and removal of ViewRanger reliance
2021-12-01 : Removal of ViewRanger links due to its imminent demise

Saxmundham, Kelsale and Carlton Circular Walk

Kelsale church from the other side of the railway

A 4 mile walk around Saxmundham, Kelsale and Carlton

Using footpaths an country lanes, this short walk provides some fine views, historic churches and even a ghostly tale of an apparition of phantom dancers. A worthy candidate for an afternoons exploration of this hidden corner of East Suffolk.

Saxmundham, Kelsale and Carlton Circular Walk - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

  • Start location: Saxmundham 
  • Distance:   miles (  km)
  • Total Gain:   ft (  metre)
  • Total Descent:   ft (  metre)
  • Min Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Max Height:   ft (  metre)
  • Walk Time:  
  • Walk type: Circular
  • Walk Grade: Easy walking
  • Terrain: Quiet lanes and footpaths

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

 

Route Verification Details

  • Date of Walk: 2014-11-08
  • Walk Time: 11:30 to 14:30
  • Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
  • Weather Conditions: Bright and sunny autumn day with increasing cloud as the day went on

Walk Notes

It is true that being British one is obsessed with the weather. It was the weather forecast that had stated all week that the Saturday would be a wash out with heavy rain and high winds coming in from the south-west. Maybe that is why on the Friday evening an extra pint of ale was consumed with the thought of no immediate need to arise at the usual hour the following day. After all it would be better to stay tucked up in bed on such a weather weary morning. An extra pint of ale is usually the harbinger of a hazy head and this was definitely the case on the following morning. Shorts Farm Indie IPA is a most robust and worthy drink but was most definitely the cause of why my somewhat hazy mind could not fully comprehend was the scene from the window on that supposedly wet morning. Blue Sky. Bright golden sunshine. That took a few minutes to really sink in. This scene was also the precursor to redefining the plans of the day, and a hastily revised schedule to head off for a short walk to investigate a recently read ghost story.

The Kelsale and Carlton circular walk had been completed before but it is always worth while revisiting a walk as there is always something new to see. What had prompted this particular instance was the ghostly story that had been found in an old book picked up from a charity shop a few weeks previous. Entitled Haunted East Anglia and written by Joan Forman this had a chapter devoted to each of East Anglia's counties, and each county containing testimony from first hand witnesses of strange phenomenon. The Suffolk chapter was especially interesting as it featured the encounter with a ghostly vision of phantom dancers that had occurred on the very path that this particular walk takes back onto Saxmundham. Although such an encounter would most likely not occur again it is nonetheless worthy of rewalking this path just to soak up the atmosphere and take it all in from the witnesses point of view. The only sad thing about the specific location of the encounter was that the area had been turned into a modern housing estate and therefore one would not be able to see across the meadows where the sighting had originally taken place. Maybe one of the houses contained haunting visions. Maybe, the vacant plot of land where the footpath emerges onto Henley Close was the site of the phantoms and no one had dared build on this for fear of disturbing the unknown. It does seem curious that on this modern housing estate there is the one vacant plot between the more modern houses and the somewhat older houses that now sit in front of the new school although none of this would have been there at the time on the sighting. Who knows. Read the full story in the features for this walk. It is a most curious tale.

The spooky part of the walk is at the end so this detail is all a bit backwards and what should not be passed over is the walk itself as it is a worthy ramble by any standards. The start of the walk heads up onto the higher ground east of Saxmundham. From here the distinctive towers of Skouldings Mill and Kelsale church are ever present marking the route of the walk.

Kelsale is a hidden gem of a village. Off the main road and thus quiet and undisturbed. There are notable old buildings including the Old Guildhall which dates from 1495. The church at Kelsale should definitely not be missed out. There are free notes at hand to guide one around the various features of this thousand year old monument. It is interesting to note that the church boasted 6 bells in the early 19th century and consequently the local pub was named The Six Bells. Then in 1831 they added another two bells. The pub closed down and the building opposite took on the role as the pub and it was named The Eight Bells. The first six bells appear to have been installed at various other times, the first being in 1425. One cant help but wonder whether at the time they opened up a hostelry and named it the Bell, then in 1681 when the second bell was installed whether the pub closed and another opened called the Two Bells. There certainly isn't any evidence of this although it is an interesting avenue of thought. Unfortunately, although the church bells still exist, all of the Kelsale pubs have long closed their doors to the public. Maybe we should petition for another bell to be placed in the tower in the hope it will spark the addition to a new pub named The Nine Bells. Or, to save the expense of bell casting and installation, maybe we should amend the petition to install a simple gong rather than a bell with the expectation of a pub opening under the name of The Eight Bells and a Gong.

Beyond Kelsale is Carlton. Skouldings Mill is seen on the road to the Poachers Pocket pub where it is worth stopping for a bite of food and refreshment. The farmland that lies to the right is said to be the location of Whit Cross where a suicide burial was reported to have occurred in 1733. The return then follows the Gull Stream to Carlton church with views across Carlton Park to the Hall. Beyond Carlton Park the walk follows the public right of way through the modern housing estate. This crosses the main road through the estate and on the right is the school which is thought to have been the approximate location of the ghostly dancers that were witnessed in the early 20th century.

Sculpture for Kelsale, Carlton and Benhall
Sculpture for Kelsale, Carlton and Benhall

Directions

The outbound route follows the East Suffolk Line path. Return uses quiet lanes through to Kelsale and Carlton followed by a footpath back to Saxmundham

Take the footpath that leads down the side of the railway bridge on the north side of Saxmundham and is marked with the East Suffolk Line Path waymarker. Keep to this path until the railway line junctions with the Sizewell branch. At this point a footpath leads across the tracks then across the fields to a country lane. Turn right for a couple of hundred yards and another footpath on the left takes you across more fields to the Kelsale road. Turn left and follow the road into Kelsale - this is a quiet country lane with little traffic. Continue down into the village and turn right onto Dennys Lane which leads up to the church.

Return from the church down Church Lane and turn right at the junction. Continue through the village up to the main road, cross straight over and head up the Rosemary Lane towards Carlton. Pass Skouldings Mill and follow the road around the double bends. The Poachers Pocket pub is on the left around the sharp left bend at the top of the road.

Keep to the road and cross directly over at the junction to follow a track. This slowly descends and then passes over Gull Stream, a small brook. Take the footpath on the left that follows the stream. Keep to this which joins a track that then leads across a meadow to Carlton Church. Follow the path around the edge of the churchyard and then continue over to the hedgerow. Go straight through and head to the left of the play fenced area keeping in a straight line towards the woodland directly ahead. The path leads through the trees and then out onto the housing estate. Walk down Dove Close, cross the road at the junction and folow the footpath down the side of the school. This emerges onto Henley Close. Turn left and follow the road which bends round to the left then the right. A footpath on the left cuts through to Harpers Lane which leads down to the main road. Turn right to return to the starting point.

Kelsale Church
Kelsale Church

Pubs

Poachers Pocket, Carlton View in OS Map | View in Google Map

Image of pub
Address
Rosemary Lane, Carlton

Formerly known as The New Inn, this 19th century pub offers a good range of food with ales from Adnams and Greene King. Friendly family run establishment that is popular with both locals and visitors using the local caravan park.

Review

A lively lunchtime with diners and drinkers in this welcoming hostelry. With the choice of Adnams Southwod Bitter and Old Ale, Green King Abbot Ale the choice of preference was definitely the Old Ale. Dark but not overpowering and easy drinking with more nutty rather than chocolate overtones. Mild, certainly not a stout. This was a good accompaniment to the cheese and onion baguette that was ordered. It did take time to arrive but that is probably because it wasn't a simple baguette but complete with chips and salad and well filling.

Skouldings Mill, Carlton
Skouldings Mill, Carlton

Features

The Church of St Mary and St Peter, KelsaleView in OS Map | View in Google Map

It is unknown when the church got its twin dedication. Certainly during the mid-to-late 19th century it was known as plain St Marys as evidenced by old books and OS maps of the time. One may guess that the merging of the parishes of Carlton and Kelsale combined the dedication but for the fact that St Peters church still exists in Carlton and is a going concern.

On walking up Dennys Lane the first thing that catches the eye is the distinctive Lych Gate which was designed by E.S. Prior, an architect who was instrumental in establishing the arts and crafts movement, during the latter years of the 19th century. The church itself is thought to be at least a thousand years old with mention of it in the Domesday Book of 1086. It has an unusual western tower which was placed in this position due to the construction of a large nave to the north of the existing church in the 14th century. Additions of the south porch occurred in the 15th century and a reading room was added in the 19th century.

Inside, behind the font, is a decorated screen, known as a reredos. This was originally placed behind the altar in the 1870's but had to be moved as it cut out the natural light from the east window.

The church tower houses eight bells, two of which were added in 1831 when a new clock was installed. This addition was reflected in the names of the local public houses. The Six Bells, although now long gone, used to be located just down the road and the present house still retains this name. The pub was said to have been located where the present garage is and the cellar steps still remain although the cellar itself has been filled in.

Shortly after the church added two new bells, the Six Bells pub closed and another opened across the road with the name of The Eight Bells. The Eight Bells finally closed its doors in 1986 although the building still remains, and is named Bell House.

References

Skoulding's MillView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Located on Rosemary Lane in Carlton is the seven storey former windmill known as Skouldings Mill after Thomas Skoulding who commissioned the structure in 1856. The mill was built by millwright John Whitmore of Wickham Market and comprised of four patent sails to drive three pairs of millstones. The lower two storeys were tarred and the remaining brickwork was painted white. The whole structure was topped with an ogee cap and gallery and a fantail.

The mill lost its sails during a gale on January 18th 1891 and in 1905 it was converted from wind to a steam which drove a rolling mill. The cap was removed in the 1950's after which the machinery was removed and the building converted into a residential property which continues to this day.

References

Roadside BurialView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Back in the 18th century it was common practice to bury suicides at cross roads on the edge of the parish boundary with a stake driven through their body. One such burial was recorded in the parish records of Kelsale in the year of 1733, which states "Robert Balls at the white cross [a crossroad on the parish boundary] was buried February 4th"

The heritage Suffolk website has recorded this as a suicide and places the site of burial with a grid reference of TM 38 65. Both modern and 19th century OS maps do not depict a district of White Cross in the Carlton cum Kelsale area, and there is no indication within the website page as to how this particular spot was determined other than a reference to a publication known as The Folklore Journal (Halliday R,Roadside Burial of Suicides: An East Anglian Study, Folklore 121, April 2010). The specified location can be found by following the footpath north of Skouldings Mill that leads to an area known as Curlew Green. The grave is supposed to be to the left of this footpath and which, these days, is nothing more than arable farmland. There is certainly no indication of there ever having been a cross between two rights of way as one would expect.

It is interesting to note that in Kelsale Church, on the roll of honour it lists a Jack Woodward whose parents are credited as living at White Cross Gardens, Carlton. Such a place no longer appears to exist and despite asking locals there appears to be no memory of such a location.

References

St Peters Church, CarltonView in OS Map | View in Google Map

Probably the most curious thing about St Peters church is its location. It is placed in the middle of Carlton Park with no road access and only footpaths leading to it. The church is not served with electricity and all services have to be held either in daylight hours or, on special occasions, with candlelight.

The structure is a small flint and stone building, probably dating from the 14th century, with a brick tower that was added two centuries later. Old OS maps also link a rectory to this church although there appears no sign of this today. The rectory is also referenced in the 1855 publication of History, Gazetteer and Directory of Suffolk which also expands on the subject by listing that some time around the year 1330 John Framlingham, the then rector of Kelsale, founded a chantry here for three chaplains to pray for the soul of Alice, the first wife of Thomas de Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk. Simon Knott who maintains the Suffolk Churches website speculates that the 15th Century choir stalls may be relics from the old chantry.

Although the church is still in use, its structure is not in the best of upkeep and it is not open to the public although the graveyard is well maintained and is still in use.

References

Tale of the Ghostly DancersView in OS Map | View in Google Map

From Carlton Park there is an old right of way that leads through to Harpers Lane on the north side of Saxmundham. Recent times have seen development of much of this area with housing but the right of way still exists. It was along this old footpath that the dancing ghosts of Saxmundham were witnessed in the early part of the 20th century. The story is told by a Mr B Waterman, who along with his brother, grew up in the town. They were not even in their teens at the time of the sighting and had set out one morning to go and play up at Carlton Park. They followed Harpers Lane and just past some stables a sight had them come to an abrupt halt. There, about 30 yards away in a meadow, were a group of figures, seven or eight in number and each one dressed from head to foot in a white luminous muslin garment which hid their faces. These figures appeared to be dancing in a circle with natural rhythmic movements although there was no music or sound to be heard. Just the figures rhythmically dancing in a follow-the-leader style. After a few seconds they just disappeared. Vanished into thin air. Both the brothers had witnessed it and without discussion, they fled back down the lane.

The story was recorded by Joan Forman in her book entitled Haunted East Anglia which was published in 1974 and the details taken from an interview with the witness who, at the time, was living in Ipswich. The story is vouched by both of the brothers and the details are the same and have remained with both brothers for the whole of their lives.

The event is said to have taken place in the area of The Bottle and Glass pub. This has long since gone but it is depicted on the 1837 OS Map although by 1881 its reference was removed. Mr Waterman attests that the family later moved to the building, so clearly it still existed in the early 20th century. The maps scale is not sufficient to be able to give a definitive position but it would appear to be located alongside an unnamed stream that leads down to the River Fromus.

The manifestation appears to have been a one-off incident for there are no other recorded reports of such sightings around Saxmundham. This particular area also has no reported folklore attached to it and there are no historic events or buildings connected with the land. Fairfield House, the only notable building, stands to the east of the location and was constructed in 1828 but there is no evidence of any earlier occupation of this land other than a find of a silver halfcrown coin, dated from the times of Charles I (1644–45), in the garden of a house on Felsham Rise and the discovery of several items of Saxon origin that were discovered during the construction of the Saxmundham bypass, to the west of this area.

Today the area is occupied by the Brook Farm housing estate which was built in the early 21st century. It is interesting to note that the right of way from Harpers Lane leads down the side of a school on this development. By the side of the school is a small stream which is the same watercourse depicted on the 1837 map where the Bottle and Glass pub stood. The school buildings are immediately beside the path and beyond them to the west are playing fields. Could this be the location of the ghostly sighting? Could this have been a curious glimpse to the future and the dancers were school children? That is a huge leap of speculation.

References
Carlton church
Carlton church

Gallery

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Summary of Document Changes

Last Updated: 2021-12-07

2014-11-12 : Initial Publication
2018-12-17 : General website updates
2019-12-06 : New responsive format
2021-03-17 : Update website improvements and removal of ViewRanger reliance
2021-12-01 : Removal of ViewRanger links due to its imminent demise

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East Suffolk PRoW Access

The Public Rights of Way (PRoW) within the Suffolk Coastal area between Aldeburgh and Southwold are subject to being blocked up and diverted due to the extensive industrial projects that are currently taking place in the area including the Sizewell C development and various wind farm projects. A PRoW Access page has been written to detail known issues in the area

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